# Deck beam radius question

**URL:** <https://forum.clcboats.com/t/deck-beam-radius-question/34017>\
**Category:** Builder's Forum\
**Created:** [May 9, 2008, 10:27am UTC](https://forum.clcboats.com/t/deck-beam-radius-question/34017 "2008-05-09T10:27:41Z")\
**Posts on this page:** 1\
**Page:** 1

<div class="post-metadata">

**Author:** ![Joe\_Fleischman](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/j/c0e974/32.png) [@Joe\_Fleischman](https://forum.clcboats.com/u/Joe_Fleischman)\
**Post date:** [May 9, 2008, 10:27am UTC](https://forum.clcboats.com/t/deck-beam-radius-question/34017/1 "2008-05-09T10:27:41Z")

</div>

I'm building my second boat now (16LT from plans, not kit), and I have an issue with the deck beam radius.&nbsp; The beam should have a finished radius of 16 inches, and the booklet suggests forming it at 15" to allow for springback.

No problem, I built the clamping jig and epoxied up the beam.&nbsp; On taking it off the jig, however, I got roughly zero springback, so I now have a 15" radius deck beam.&nbsp; Now what?

I've considered a couple of options.&nbsp;

1. I can use it as is and cut the bulkheads to match the curve of the deck beam.&nbsp; That's probably the simplest.&nbsp;

2. I can add an additional strip or two of 4mm&nbsp;to the beams and plane it to something closer to a 16" radius.&nbsp; Do-able, but a pain.

&nbsp;In building a 17LT previously, I did neither, and ended up with a gap between the top of the bulkheds and the deck that I had to fill for watertightness between the compartments.

So my question is:&nbsp; Is the difference between a 15 or 16 inch radius that big a deal?&nbsp; Of course if time and trouble were not an issue, I'd build another jig & re-form the beams, but I hate to add a week to my build time if it's no biggie.

Opinions from the experts?