# Epoxy Drip Management **URL:** \ **Category:** Builder's Forum\ **Created:** [March 1, 2013, 12:31am UTC](https://forum.clcboats.com/t/epoxy-drip-management/40686 "2013-03-01T00:31:15Z")\ **Posts on this page:** 4\ **Page:** 1
**Author:** ![rjmarlatt](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/r/b19c9b/32.png) [@rjmarlatt](https://forum.clcboats.com/u/rjmarlatt)\ **Post date:** [March 1, 2013, 12:31am UTC](https://forum.clcboats.com/t/epoxy-drip-management/40686/1 "2013-03-01T00:31:15Z")
How do you manage the inevitable drips  and runs that come with working with Epoxy.  I have read some articles where people use masking tape.  Drips require sanding and can be hard to remove.  I have used a dremel to speed this process up, but occasional scar the epoxy with to agressive application. Any suggestions??? ---
**Author:** ![jps](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/j/b4bc9f/32.png) [@jps](https://forum.clcboats.com/u/jps)\ **Post date:** [March 1, 2013, 6:50am UTC](https://forum.clcboats.com/t/epoxy-drip-management/40686/2 "2013-03-01T06:50:06Z")
For those horizontal surfaces, I use the timer function on my watch and go back every 15-20 minutes to smooth out the drips with a foam brush. ---
**Author:** ![Kevin\_Greer](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/k/f14d63/32.png) [@Kevin\_Greer](https://forum.clcboats.com/u/Kevin_Greer)\ **Post date:** [March 1, 2013, 8:43am UTC](https://forum.clcboats.com/t/epoxy-drip-management/40686/3 "2013-03-01T08:43:05Z")
Here is a couple of thoughts:  1) If you are laying fiberglass over your hull, leave a couple of inches or more overhang to catch those runs. 2) If you are doing a fill coat and have drips, I use a cabinet scraper to shave off the drip close to flush; then, I clean it up flush with a sander. I found one of the best tools in getting rid of drips in tight quarters is using a cheap Black & Decker mouse sander with its triangluar shape.  You can also use the mouse sander trangluar tip to sand drips down directly with little effect of gouging the surrounding area. 3) I kinda apply the fill coat epoxy similar to the techniques in applying varnish.   a) I use a chip brush to apply the epoxy to a 1-2 foot square area, pulling across the hull or beam to beam direction. Brushing on the horizontal surfaces and pulling the extra epoxy down the sides.  I then use a 2 inch epoxy roller to go from bow to stern (end to end) and smooth out the area I just brushed on epoxy.... You will then probably seen some tiny bubbles.  I eliminate most of them by using my chip brush, but this time tipping off the bubbles by smooth/light strokes from bow to stern (end to end).  The epoxy roller will lay down a more even coat but more thinly.  You may need to apply multiple coats.  My finally step is to use a heat gun to gently release any other bubbles.  Don't buy an expensive heat gun.  Get a cheap one from Harbor freight or Northern Tool. Note: Do not use a big box paint roller!  Use a roller made for epoxy, like CLC sells.   ---
**Author:** ![David\_Ludwig](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/d/7feea3/32.png) [@David\_Ludwig](https://forum.clcboats.com/u/David_Ludwig)\ **Post date:** [March 1, 2013, 10:50am UTC](https://forum.clcboats.com/t/epoxy-drip-management/40686/4 "2013-03-01T10:50:23Z")
Not exactly(but could be) a drip related solution, but I found that in cooler weather, foam rollers left a lumpy finish. So I went to the brush-on varnish technique. Foam brush using vertical strokes, followed by horizontal strokes a couple of feet at a time. This leaves a pretty decent finish without a lot of sanding required. Foam brushes aren't created equal. The ones I got at CLC held up much better that the ones I got from True Value, which, when saturated, were a little too flexible. YMMV. Dave