# Guider Build - bottom glassing question **URL:** \ **Category:** Builder's Forum\ **Created:** [September 24, 2025, 1:25am UTC](https://forum.clcboats.com/t/guider-build-bottom-glassing-question/71576 "2025-09-24T01:25:16Z")\ **Posts on this page:** 3\ **Page:** 1
**Author:** ![pvraniak](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/p/e56c9b/32.png) [@pvraniak](https://forum.clcboats.com/u/pvraniak)\ **Post date:** [September 24, 2025, 1:25am UTC](https://forum.clcboats.com/t/guider-build-bottom-glassing-question/71576/1 "2025-09-24T01:25:16Z")
Hi all, Thanks in advance for all advice and and patience with what will likely be many questions from me requesting expertise on this forum. I recently started building The Guider. I have built a cedar strip canoe previously, but that is my only prior boat building experience. The canoe turned out quite nicely and offered some experience with all sorts of new skills. However, The Guider will be my first stitch & glue build. So far things are coming together nicely. I have the hull all together with the stations and have tack welded the interior. About to flip it over. I have been reading ahead a bit and this is where my first (of many I’m sure) questions comes up. On the description of glassing the bottom of the hull it appears that the topside planks, planks 3 & 4, don’t get glassed at all? The instructions call for overlapping glass such that the bottom plank and plank 1 on port & starboard will be double thick, plank 2 will be single thick, then planks 3 & 4 don’t get glassed? Seems odd to me to not fiberglass the entire hull at least to single thickness. Any thoughts or clarifications on this would be welcome. Thanks! -Peter ---
**Author:** ![Laszlo\_Morocz](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/l/c68b51/32.png) [@Laszlo\_Morocz](https://forum.clcboats.com/u/Laszlo_Morocz)\ **Post date:** [September 24, 2025, 12:41pm UTC](https://forum.clcboats.com/t/guider-build-bottom-glassing-question/71576/2 "2025-09-24T12:41:01Z")
The wood on the unglassed planks is protected by the epoxy encapsulation while the epoxy is protected by the paint/varnish. The designer has deemed that for normal use this will be enough protection against water intrusion and abrasion. Adding more glass would add weight, labor and expense for a diminishing return that wouldn’t be worth it. That said, it’s your boat and you’re the builder. If you think that the extra weight, labor and expense is worth it, go ahead and put it on. That’s what I do with my boats. I tend to use them hard and keep them for a long time, so I prefer the extra abrasion protection that I get from a layer of 4 oz glass over bare wood. I’ve been building S&G boats long enough that I can compensate for the weight of the extra glass/epoxy (my 16-year old WD12 came in 2 lbs below the design weight even though it is completely glassed inside and out). In addition to the abrasion protection, interior glass also protects against collision damage by resisting the sides being stove in. So it’s your choice. Build it the way the designer intended and you will have a good, functional boat that will last for many adventures. Add the extra glass and you’ll have peace of mind in unusual situations, extra practice glassing and filling the weave and a little less money. Either way, it’ll work well for you. ---
**Author:** ![pvraniak](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/p/e56c9b/32.png) [@pvraniak](https://forum.clcboats.com/u/pvraniak)\ **Post date:** [September 24, 2025, 10:17pm UTC](https://forum.clcboats.com/t/guider-build-bottom-glassing-question/71576/3 "2025-09-24T22:17:10Z")
That makes sense. Thanks!