# Hatch rims and doublers - Chesapeake LT17?
**URL:** https://forum.clcboats.com/t/hatch-rims-and-doublers-chesapeake-lt17/36778
**Category:** Builder's Forum
**Created:** [April 23, 2010, 7:18pm UTC](https://forum.clcboats.com/t/hatch-rims-and-doublers-chesapeake-lt17/36778 "2010-04-23T19:18:52Z")
**Posts on this page:** 8
**Page:** 1
### Author:  [@Grant\_Carlson](https://forum.clcboats.com/u/Grant_Carlson)
#### Post date: [April 23, 2010, 7:18pm UTC](https://forum.clcboats.com/t/hatch-rims-and-doublers-chesapeake-lt17/36778/1 "2010-04-23T19:18:52Z")
My aged set of plans doesn’t include the hatch rims and doublers that reinforce the edges of the deck openings. Are both the doublers and the rims cut from 4mm ply? How wide are they? Photos would be great, if that isn’t too much trouble. Thanks!
---
### Author:  [@Larry\_Mcinnis](https://forum.clcboats.com/u/Larry_Mcinnis)
#### Post date: [April 24, 2010, 7:59am UTC](https://forum.clcboats.com/t/hatch-rims-and-doublers-chesapeake-lt17/36778/2 "2010-04-24T07:59:56Z")
O.Y.,
I build my 17 from plans, and yes, I used 4mm ply for the hatch rims. I didn't use doublers because I put an extra deck beam opposite both bulkheads to support the deck shape when cutting out the hatch material. One layer is shaped exactly like the hatch (to give depth), the second has 3/8" extension on which to glue foam seals for the hatch covers to rest on.
Larry
---
### Author:  [@Grant\_Carlson](https://forum.clcboats.com/u/Grant_Carlson)
#### Post date: [April 24, 2010, 5:07pm UTC](https://forum.clcboats.com/t/hatch-rims-and-doublers-chesapeake-lt17/36778/3 "2010-04-24T17:07:59Z")
Thank you Larry. But it sounds like you made your hatches to fit flush with the decks. Is that right? I'm just doing mine the regular way, with the hatch covers sitting up higher than (and overlapping) the decks, and held down with the usual straps and buckles across the decks.
According to the CLC web site, the standard Chesapeake kits (and I assume they're also shown on the current plans) now include a "hatch doubler" (maybe 1.5" wide?) the fits around the UNDER side of the deck opening to reinforce it, and a narrow (maybe 1/4" wide?) "hatch rim" that fits around the TOP of the deck opening to improve waterproofness. My guess is neither of these "doublers" or "rims" extend horizontally into the hole that is cut in the deck. They also sell a little additional kit for doing flush hatches, but that's not what I'm talking about.
I'm trying to get an idea of materials and dimensions so I can do something similar.
---
### Author:  [@Larry\_Mcinnis](https://forum.clcboats.com/u/Larry_Mcinnis)
#### Post date: [April 24, 2010, 8:52pm UTC](https://forum.clcboats.com/t/hatch-rims-and-doublers-chesapeake-lt17/36778/4 "2010-04-24T20:52:02Z")
O.Y.,
Yes, I built a recessed ledge for the foam seals so my hatches would sit flush with the deck (given that they're cut directly from the deck - the wood grain will match up under varnish). I've read about what you refer to as the "hatch doubler" but can't quite picture it now..., especially the 1/4" hatch rim on top of the deck. I recommend calling CLC and talking this out with them before you do anything permanent; they have excellent customer service and a phone call would preclude the chance of miss-understood forum posts. The can certainly walk you through the process over the phone (and would be happy to do so!).
All that said, since you don't have the pieces in your kit, you might want to consider making flush hatches (like I did), looks cleaner, seals just as well and doesn't take any more work, from what I can tell. Just a thought.... I can send you detailed pictures of how I did that if you'd like.
Let us know how this goes.
I put my last coat of primer on my 17 LT (modified) today and will begin the final painting next weekend (temps have to go up!). I'll post pictures once it's done - hopefully in about two weeks!
Good luck,
Larry
---
### Author:  [@Eric\_Compas](https://forum.clcboats.com/u/Eric_Compas)
#### Post date: [July 28, 2010, 12:16pm UTC](https://forum.clcboats.com/t/hatch-rims-and-doublers-chesapeake-lt17/36778/5 "2010-07-28T12:16:23Z")
Larry,
Posted photos of your flush hatches yet? I'm considering the same for a Chesapeake 16 and would like to see your solution.
Thanks,
Eric
---
### Author:  [@Edward\_Brubaker](https://forum.clcboats.com/u/Edward_Brubaker)
#### Post date: [July 28, 2010, 2:58pm UTC](https://forum.clcboats.com/t/hatch-rims-and-doublers-chesapeake-lt17/36778/6 "2010-07-28T14:58:19Z")
If you go to ""tips for boat builders" and "fitting out, there is a whole section on how the flush hatch works.
Ed
---
### Author:  [@Larry\_Mcinnis](https://forum.clcboats.com/u/Larry_Mcinnis)
#### Post date: [July 28, 2010, 7:14pm UTC](https://forum.clcboats.com/t/hatch-rims-and-doublers-chesapeake-lt17/36778/7 "2010-07-28T19:14:51Z")
Eric,
Here's a couple pics of the finished product, not sure if the hatches show up that well. Note that I still used the straps/buckles to hold the hatches on, and if you see the green edge of the hatches it's because of the 3/8" foam on the hatch rim below the opening. All in all they sit pretty flush..., the only issue I had was that my hatch covers were a tad warped (I guess the way I glued the curved supports beneath them). Next time I re-varnish the deck I'm going to glue a couple wood "beams" on each edge of the hatch cover to give the straps something to push down on. Should take out that warp.
Pics: 
Hope this helps,
Larry
---
### Author:  [@Larry\_Mcinnis](https://forum.clcboats.com/u/Larry_Mcinnis)
#### Post date: [July 28, 2010, 7:16pm UTC](https://forum.clcboats.com/t/hatch-rims-and-doublers-chesapeake-lt17/36778/8 "2010-07-28T19:16:11Z")
Sorry about the double pic post, was supposed to be pics of fore and aft hatches, but I think you get the idea.
Larry