# Hatch straps hold down method?

**URL:** <https://forum.clcboats.com/t/hatch-straps-hold-down-method/72485>\
**Category:** Builder's Forum\
**Created:** [October 14, 2026, 2:52pm UTC](https://forum.clcboats.com/t/hatch-straps-hold-down-method/72485 "2026-10-14T14:52:59Z")\
**Posts on this page:** 9\
**Page:** 1

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**Author:** ![Dusty](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/d/a183cd/32.png) [@Dusty](https://forum.clcboats.com/u/Dusty)\
**Post date:** [October 14, 2026, 2:52pm UTC](https://forum.clcboats.com/t/hatch-straps-hold-down-method/72485/1 "2026-10-14T14:52:59Z")

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Is a machine screw with nut and washer under the deck and with a finish washer above through a folded web strap a solid way to secure to a deck? Maybe a fender washer under the finish washer for extra chafe prevention?

Is there a much better way?

Thank you.

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**Author:** ![Mark\_Nye](https://yyz1.discourse-cdn.com/flex007/user_avatar/forum.clcboats.com/mark_nye/32/18_2.png) [@Mark\_Nye](https://forum.clcboats.com/u/Mark_Nye)\
**Post date:** [October 14, 2026, 5:15pm UTC](https://forum.clcboats.com/t/hatch-straps-hold-down-method/72485/2 "2026-10-14T17:15:31Z")

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What boat design and what type hatches?

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**Author:** ![Dusty](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/d/a183cd/32.png) [@Dusty](https://forum.clcboats.com/u/Dusty)\
**Post date:** [October 14, 2026, 7:12pm UTC](https://forum.clcboats.com/t/hatch-straps-hold-down-method/72485/3 "2026-10-14T19:12:35Z")

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I ask specifically for the EXPEDITION WHERRY (_though I’m expecting that the reply could be for any deck hatch that needs to be held down_). In my case I bought a EW a few summers ago and right from the beginning I knew that the existing hatches would need rework. Badly fitted and the hold down buttons were a terrible solution. I needed a screwdriver to loosen before turning and to raise the lid off the deck. Made worse by the buttons took up paint as they were turned. There were other problems too.

Has taken me this long to get around to it as last summer boating was cancelled due to a heart breaking crisis and this summer was taken up making for last summer’s neglect - I worked 6 days each week from May through mid-September. Was on the water once. 😫

Now I have removed the old one piece flush hatches and fitted new double thick OKUME hatches - the bottom layer is the flush fit as intended but the top layer overlays the perimeter of the bottom by 5/16" or so to compensate for the very irregular hatch opening. The double thickness of OKUME was epoxied together formed to deck shaped cauls above and below for the end result to be a fitted to the curve of the deck right out of the glue up. All good.

I want to use the web straps with side release buckles but keep the deck hardware to a minimum and so my question . . .

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**Author:** ![Mark\_Nye](https://yyz1.discourse-cdn.com/flex007/user_avatar/forum.clcboats.com/mark_nye/32/18_2.png) [@Mark\_Nye](https://forum.clcboats.com/u/Mark_Nye)\
**Post date:** [October 14, 2026, 9:52pm UTC](https://forum.clcboats.com/t/hatch-straps-hold-down-method/72485/5 "2026-10-14T21:52:23Z")

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I asked which boat and hatch because CLC sells a large number of designs which use different deck materials and hatch configurations. If you look at this picture of my first six builds, you will see three different types of hatches mounted in four different deck layups. What works for one combination may not work for another.

 ![46237206894_d17b068ef5_o](https://canada1.discourse-cdn.com/flex007/uploads/clc/original/2X/2/276ec5684426ad69b5b234f5187d97a0a0739962.jpeg)

I have not built an Expedition Wherry, but looking at the build photos it looks like the deck is either 3 or 4 mm Okoume that is only glassed on the outside. If that is the case, I believe that the deck is too thin to for any loaded fixture that is secured with just a washer and nut on the inside. Over time, the washer will cut into the epoxy coated wood leading to water intrusion.

As an alternative, cut some 2” square okoume pads, coat with epoxy then glue them under the deck where your bolts will be with thickened epoxy. This will be much stronger and isolate your pretty deck from possible water stains. If you want, you can mount T-nuts in the okoume pads instead of using a washer and nut. This approach is how I mounted the deck handles in the three boats above that have them.

Since the EW has shear clamps, an easier option is the replicate the hatch straps used in the two Chesapeakes (white boats) in the picture. (The shear clamp is a 3/4” square piece of timber on the inside of the boat where the hull and deck meet.). The hatch straps could be attached using 3/4” wood screws running down into the hardwood shear clamp along the deck edge. This is standard practice on many designs with shear clamps. (Note that in my picture, the screws are through the hull into the shear clamps instead of the deck. That is because my assistant Mr Dumbass did not read the directions.). If you go this route, you will want to seal the plywood deck end grain after drilling the holes to prevent water intrusion/staining.

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**Author:** ![Dusty](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/d/a183cd/32.png) [@Dusty](https://forum.clcboats.com/u/Dusty)\
**Post date:** [October 14, 2026, 11:46pm UTC](https://forum.clcboats.com/t/hatch-straps-hold-down-method/72485/6 "2026-10-14T23:46:31Z")

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Excellent info Mark, thank you very much. Good call on the deck thickness. It’s a mess of gobbed hard epoxy under there now where the turn buttons were secured. I think the builder tried to “house” the nuts and washers under the buttons but they all fell out anyway. I can clean that up and as you suggest add an expoxied pad. My choice - _I think, from my sofa_ - will be to add a full length pad to catch both strap ends on each side at once.

I’m reasonably confident with the fitted to the deck curve double layer hatch cover and well installed gasket I will only need 2 straps per hatch. I can always add a third if that fails and with the full length pad underneath, the prep work will be done.

I would rather not go to the sheer clamp. Too much extra strap needed and I think out to the edge so far that could become a chafing point.

You’ve added some work to this process but all for the best for sure. Thanks again.

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**Author:** ![Laszlo\_Morocz](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/l/c68b51/32.png) [@Laszlo\_Morocz](https://forum.clcboats.com/u/Laszlo_Morocz)\
**Post date:** [October 15, 2026, 12:18pm UTC](https://forum.clcboats.com/t/hatch-straps-hold-down-method/72485/7 "2026-10-15T12:18:20Z")

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Don’t forget the invisible hatch cover hold downs (about the only kind that Mark seems not to have used in his picture). It uses internal bungee cords and hooks to hold the hatch cover in place. There’s no externally visible hardware or attachment points. With your setup as described it would look like the hatch covers are staying in place by magic. The original intent was to make the hatch almost completely invisible, but “magic” hatches are cool, too. The lack of external hardware makes wet re-entries easier for kayaks - nothing to snag you as you slide over the hatch cover. Don’t know if that feature applies to your wherry.

Laszlo

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**Author:** ![Jon\_Ferguson](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/j/d9b06d/32.png) [@Jon\_Ferguson](https://forum.clcboats.com/u/Jon_Ferguson)\
**Post date:** [October 15, 2026, 12:50pm UTC](https://forum.clcboats.com/t/hatch-straps-hold-down-method/72485/8 "2026-10-15T12:50:11Z")

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@Mark_Nye Do you find the oval kayak hatches (sea dog) stay on going down the highway?

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**Author:** ![Dusty](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/d/a183cd/32.png) [@Dusty](https://forum.clcboats.com/u/Dusty)\
**Post date:** [October 15, 2026, 1:58pm UTC](https://forum.clcboats.com/t/hatch-straps-hold-down-method/72485/9 "2026-10-15T13:58:04Z")

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Laszlo, I haven’t been able to figure out how the invisible hold downs work - get installed and disconnect? The photos I have been able to find have not helped me to clear the muddle from my head. No matter now, I’ve overbuilt my hatches. 😀 I’ll post photos when I’m done.

As for re-entries my new hatches could actually give me something to hold on to if I ever needed that. The cockpit and rowing rig though are plenty grabable by themselves.

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**Author:** ![Mark\_Nye](https://yyz1.discourse-cdn.com/flex007/user_avatar/forum.clcboats.com/mark_nye/32/18_2.png) [@Mark\_Nye](https://forum.clcboats.com/u/Mark_Nye)\
**Post date:** [October 15, 2026, 4:06pm UTC](https://forum.clcboats.com/t/hatch-straps-hold-down-method/72485/10 "2026-10-15T16:06:18Z")

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I have not had any trouble with the rubber hatches staying on. The trick is to make sure that the lip is fully engaged all the way around. I find that a little bit of white synthetic grease (like what is used with swimming pool o rings) applied on the hatch lip makes it much easier to install.
