# Pattern parts/parts cut from plans

**URL:** <https://forum.clcboats.com/t/pattern-parts-parts-cut-from-plans/46685>\
**Category:** Builder's Forum\
**Created:** [December 31, 2018, 5:20pm UTC](https://forum.clcboats.com/t/pattern-parts-parts-cut-from-plans/46685 "2018-12-31T17:20:22Z")\
**Posts on this page:** 3\
**Page:** 1

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**Author:** ![Wayne\_Gooch](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/w/bbce88/32.png) [@Wayne\_Gooch](https://forum.clcboats.com/u/Wayne_Gooch)\
**Post date:** [December 31, 2018, 5:20pm UTC](https://forum.clcboats.com/t/pattern-parts-parts-cut-from-plans/46685/1 "2018-12-31T17:20:22Z")

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&nbsp; &nbsp;I am using kit parts to trace replacement parts . I am just wondering for those who have already gone through this process, either cutting out parts from plans or tracing kit parts. I can see it is important to be as accurate as possible on hull and deck parts. For small parts such as deck combing and spacers do I need to be concerned about having an exact duplicate?&nbsp;

Is the critical shaping going to happen at the point of installation, even for the precisely cut Kit parts?

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I am considering Using the traced parts to build may shearwater sport, and keeping the kit parts, until I am ready to build a second Shearwater Sport. I also have a Chesapeake 17LT Kit to build, as well as The Artic Hawk.

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**Author:** ![Mark\_Nye](https://yyz1.discourse-cdn.com/flex007/user_avatar/forum.clcboats.com/mark_nye/32/18_2.png) [@Mark\_Nye](https://forum.clcboats.com/u/Mark_Nye)\
**Post date:** [December 31, 2018, 6:09pm UTC](https://forum.clcboats.com/t/pattern-parts-parts-cut-from-plans/46685/2 "2018-12-31T18:09:33Z")

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It is not crucial that these parts are exact but you will save yourself a bunch of work if they are close.&nbsp; Once they are all glued together, you can sand the inner radius to make it perfectly smooth.&nbsp; This will be much easier if the inner radius of all the parts are close to begin with.&nbsp; The outer edge of the spacers is less important because it will be hidden under the lip.&nbsp; The lip itself can be any width you choose as long as it is wide enough to hold a skirt and/or cockpit cover.

If you do decide to build a second boat, please respect CLC's property rights and buy a license for it.

![](https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/3Os2OQaKr-ZWcWwE4zBXBbk4xo78usMk4IIFEmpbdPHAn2ijyHNcWPSua94LfMXRe30lhBmB5qsIh3nF4YKI3ViL9CJGqU9GKGIWy4sUkQ3oQWKOmnoJHmohKgPPVLGqLGdesRgsFTQCqg65XsK1nEe3b_QasygfDr2XP1fn8d8_oipAi5SG-FLUWo_aFk2I04NG0JFx_9584m4nFBnsqS6h0CzkQq4hBkxkquuRxIOjtzRVIKQfLqQK3EKRAkolLgSiOVDD5_CGiq3oR1E4QbYzqoS0ETsa_R_F17_vuDiWWlkRsRXHJGjkq8RV7v0BeZo2-bX5EMWmOarTmMCSn658zIyrYMAo1KMoamQ2ybB_407UUfs8sBYzVfcCi-xfqpOuOl58eDvZ7KemWN2AacRCXBd-Cdxi2dJAp89vCS5NCTQV4SVB7nxjQxE575kPZYwSyTHxzH1BaHKTr0iDpUnbVwljQ80ZYln1lhsk6SXANxrymO2D-iPNkmXFip97JOTlEQbqA33GElsaf4aC4qlArebd4oYfkp7_KL6av-rTMBHSAwbRzjw3t0rVhEGbc3KeyDBqDGbsZQTEDcdu4RXntKLBiOx4GnvbHuc5zORD93m90TPoddCtO_l-MzjbX5qs-PtIx_u1_YTs9Ru6Bs6aZBX5d7X4SrFWzYBgfadm6HPH2BvUEM2I4tXhFP6vcscymjf0YSbrVxhVQw=w2048-h1297-no)&nbsp;

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**Author:** ![Chris\_Larsen](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/c/c77e96/32.png) [@Chris\_Larsen](https://forum.clcboats.com/u/Chris_Larsen)\
**Post date:** [January 1, 2019, 7:56am UTC](https://forum.clcboats.com/t/pattern-parts-parts-cut-from-plans/46685/3 "2019-01-01T07:56:26Z")

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That is a very interesting concept.&nbsp; There's a bunch of truth in "build your first boat second".&nbsp; I made templates from all of the non-scarfed parts for both boats (Eastport Pram & Passagemaker).&nbsp; I may have to build another EP for my son (and yes will pay CLC if/when I do so).

It's an interesting concept to build two boats at the same time.&nbsp; I estimate that it would save about 30% of your time overall, since setting up and cleaning up time would be divided by 2.&nbsp; I was also able to cut out the templates at the same time as the boat parts, so you could cut out two boats and a template at the same time pretty easily.&nbsp; It's also cool to have two of the exact boats for match racing, or just giving everyone a chance to mess about at the same time instead of taking them out in shifts.

With regards to precision, for some parts, I rough cut with jig saw and Shinto rasped to the line, for others I used a Japanese pull saw on the line.&nbsp; My plans cut out parts fit like they were CNCd, so I would get as accurate as possible in order to avoid any unpleasantness later on in the process.&nbsp; When stitching up your parts, you want to be able to blame the stitching, not the parts.