# Sanding the hull
**URL:** https://forum.clcboats.com/t/sanding-the-hull/36019
**Category:** Builder's Forum
**Created:** [November 17, 2009, 12:31pm UTC](https://forum.clcboats.com/t/sanding-the-hull/36019 "2009-11-17T12:31:50Z")
**Posts on this page:** 6
**Page:** 1
### Author:  [@Mike\_James](https://forum.clcboats.com/u/Mike_James)
#### Post date: [November 17, 2009, 12:31pm UTC](https://forum.clcboats.com/t/sanding-the-hull/36019/1 "2009-11-17T12:31:50Z")
I've fiberglassed the hull of my WD12 and over the past couple of weeks (a few minutes here, a few minutes there) have been sanding it smooth. That's with the 80 grit in a random orbital sander.
My question: Since I will have to sand again after fiberglassing the deck, is there any reason I should go over the hull at this time with finer grits? Would it not be better to leave it with the 80-grit, fiberglass the deck, and then continue with the finer grits? The manual is unclear on this point.
This may seem obvious to those of you who have done this before, but this is my first boat. Failure is not an option. Thanks in advance.
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### Author:  [@George\_Krewson](https://forum.clcboats.com/u/George_Krewson)
#### Post date: [November 17, 2009, 1:44pm UTC](https://forum.clcboats.com/t/sanding-the-hull/36019/2 "2009-11-17T13:44:11Z")
Since you're going to feather in the deck glass with the hull you might as well wait and do all the finish sanding at the same time.
George K
p.s. Failure is certainly an option but nothing that can't be fixed.
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### Author:  [@Larry\_Mcinnis](https://forum.clcboats.com/u/Larry_Mcinnis)
#### Post date: [November 17, 2009, 5:41pm UTC](https://forum.clcboats.com/t/sanding-the-hull/36019/3 "2009-11-17T17:41:13Z")
Mike,
I'm sanding my Chese in prep for glassing the deck, and like you said, I'm only sanding the 2 - 3 inches necessary to accept the deck glass. I'll sand the rest of the hull when I fair in the deck glass. Less work, less danger of sanding through the hull glass.
Oh, and it's "Failure is not an option; it comes bundled in the software." Microsoft
Good luck,
Larry
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### Author:  [@Mike\_James](https://forum.clcboats.com/u/Mike_James)
#### Post date: [November 18, 2009, 8:11pm UTC](https://forum.clcboats.com/t/sanding-the-hull/36019/4 "2009-11-18T20:11:56Z")
Thanks to all. Much appreciated.
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### Author:  [@Larry\_Fisher](https://forum.clcboats.com/u/Larry_Fisher)
#### Post date: [November 21, 2009, 8:29am UTC](https://forum.clcboats.com/t/sanding-the-hull/36019/5 "2009-11-21T08:29:41Z")
Mike, I probably came into this discussion too late, but here is my two cents worth. I am a long time woodworker making furniture for me and for sale. I have random orbit sanders and palm sanders. I took one look at the WD12 I was making and realized the palm sander would be the best choice. The random orbit has a very rigid and flat sanding pad which is good for flat furniture. But I figured the edge of that pad could quickly cut into the epoxied curves and do more damage than good. So, I went with palm sander and was very happy with the results. 80 grit in a random orbit can cut extremely fast on a curve surface - especially at the edges of the sanding disc. Just my two cents on a rainy Saturday morning.
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### Author:  [@Larry\_Mcinnis](https://forum.clcboats.com/u/Larry_Mcinnis)
#### Post date: [November 21, 2009, 9:38am UTC](https://forum.clcboats.com/t/sanding-the-hull/36019/6 "2009-11-21T09:38:36Z")
lafisher,
I just found out how right you are about RO disks cutting into curves. Fortunately it was along my nail line (which will be painted) so it didn't ruin any visible wood, but I was surprised how quickly a little tilt can dig in.
Thanks for the tip..., my next sanding will be with a Makita palm/pad.
Larry