# Shear clamps planned too thin? **URL:** \ **Category:** Builder's Forum\ **Created:** [August 25, 2026, 3:36pm UTC](https://forum.clcboats.com/t/shear-clamps-planned-too-thin/72320 "2026-08-25T15:36:02Z")\ **Posts on this page:** 20\ **Page:** 1
**Author:** ![Robert\_Luke\_Battenfe](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/r/d26b3c/32.png) [@Robert\_Luke\_Battenfe](https://forum.clcboats.com/u/Robert_Luke_Battenfe)\ **Post date:** [August 25, 2026, 3:36pm UTC](https://forum.clcboats.com/t/shear-clamps-planned-too-thin/72320/1 "2026-08-25T15:36:02Z")
I followed the instructions and used the planning guide for the aft section and I was happy with the results. That was until I looked inside the boat and noticed I planned the shear clamp down to about a 1/4 inch in one section. I don’t see how I could have avoided this since the shear clamps were oriented at slightly different angles. If the planning was optional I wish I took that option. Should I add ½ battens under the thin shear clamps to add strength and more bite for the deck nails? ![IMG_3062](https://canada1.discourse-cdn.com/flex007/uploads/clc/original/2X/4/40037dbc137d6dac1608dddcbdc90b166f8a4fbe.jpeg) ---
**Author:** ![David\_Dewitt1](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/d/8c91f0/32.png) [@David\_Dewitt1](https://forum.clcboats.com/u/David_Dewitt1)\ **Post date:** [August 25, 2026, 7:08pm UTC](https://forum.clcboats.com/t/shear-clamps-planned-too-thin/72320/2 "2026-08-25T19:08:04Z")
Why would you use nails instead of thickened epoxy? ---
**Author:** ![Robert\_Luke\_Battenfe](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/r/d26b3c/32.png) [@Robert\_Luke\_Battenfe](https://forum.clcboats.com/u/Robert_Luke_Battenfe)\ **Post date:** [August 25, 2026, 7:47pm UTC](https://forum.clcboats.com/t/shear-clamps-planned-too-thin/72320/3 "2026-08-25T19:47:00Z")
David, Using nails is in the instructions (albeit, from a 17 year old manual). I was planning on using both. Rob ---
**Author:** ![Mark\_Nye](https://yyz1.discourse-cdn.com/flex007/user_avatar/forum.clcboats.com/mark_nye/32/18_2.png) [@Mark\_Nye](https://forum.clcboats.com/u/Mark_Nye)\ **Post date:** [August 25, 2026, 10:41pm UTC](https://forum.clcboats.com/t/shear-clamps-planned-too-thin/72320/4 "2026-08-25T22:41:24Z")
Not sure how you did that. The shear clamps were originally 1” high and were supposed to be glued 1/4” proud of the side panels. As a result, after planing they should be a minimum of 3/4” high in the back of the boat, with more height in front. In any event, this is certainly fixable so don’t get too worried. The first thing to do is to go around the boat and measure how much shear clamp height is remaining. The ring nails in the kit are 3/4” long and the deck is 3/16” thick, so anyplace where the shear clamp is less than ~ 3/8” high is a location where the nail will stick out of the bottom of the shear clamp. In the very bow or stern, this is probably not an issue but not something you want in the cockpit or near the hatches. If the problem is very localized, I’d probably glue some wood strips to the bottom of the shear clamps in the offending areas then proceed per the directions. If the problem is pervasive, you could choose to not use the ring nails at all. Before installing the deck, you are going to slather the top of the shear clamps with thickened epoxy. The bronze ring nails are just used to hold the deck tightly against the shear clamps while the epoxy cures and could actually be removed afterwards if you really wanted. Instead of nails, you could use straps/tape to hold the deck in position while the epoxy cures. This is normal technique for designs where the precut deck shape has little overhang, but much harder on the Chesapeake because there is a lot of overhang (look at the picture). As this is your first build, I recommend against this approach. Maybe a better approach would be to buy shorter ring nails. I found some marine grade Silicon Bronze 1/2” long from a company called Fair Wind Fasteners and they may be available elsewhere. With 1/2” long nails, the should only stick out the bottom in locations where the shear clamp height is less than about 5/16”. Hope that this helps. ![55324571844_bd0ea9a03f_o](https://canada1.discourse-cdn.com/flex007/uploads/clc/original/2X/a/ab5417ed3e91a76f604e45c2f55e0238d8a9f8ff.jpeg) ---
**Author:** ![Robert\_Luke\_Battenfe](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/r/d26b3c/32.png) [@Robert\_Luke\_Battenfe](https://forum.clcboats.com/u/Robert_Luke_Battenfe)\ **Post date:** [August 25, 2026, 11:11pm UTC](https://forum.clcboats.com/t/shear-clamps-planned-too-thin/72320/5 "2026-08-25T23:11:37Z")
Mark, I am not sure either. I checked with the planning guides as I worked. The planning guide for the stern is right on the angles. It is about a foot section in the stern and in the bow also but not as low. They are both suspiciously on the port side. I was thinking I could clip the nails in the cockpit and around the hatches as far as I can reach. Frankly I rarely use the hatches on my fiberglass kayak anymore. Or I look for the ½ nails. I am starting to get a little less panicky recovering from mistakes. Thanks. Rob ---
**Author:** ![Jon\_Ferguson](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/j/d9b06d/32.png) [@Jon\_Ferguson](https://forum.clcboats.com/u/Jon_Ferguson)\ **Post date:** [August 26, 2026, 12:03am UTC](https://forum.clcboats.com/t/shear-clamps-planned-too-thin/72320/6 "2026-08-26T00:03:11Z")
I’ve made my share of mistakes Rob. These guys helped me find my way through them. It’s going to be okay. ---
**Author:** ![Howard\_Spira](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/h/ec9cab/32.png) [@Howard\_Spira](https://forum.clcboats.com/u/Howard_Spira)\ **Post date:** [August 26, 2026, 1:27am UTC](https://forum.clcboats.com/t/shear-clamps-planned-too-thin/72320/7 "2026-08-26T01:27:27Z")
just some thoughts to add: - as mark mentioned, measure carefully the thicknesses of the shearclamp around the boat so you have control of the situation. but what you definitely do not want to do is have nails that pass outside of the shear clamp becuase the nail is too long. the main reason for that is you have now opened up raw wood to the interior of the boat with no reasonable opportunity to ensure its water proofness any more…which becomes an opportunity for rot and other bad things. - i would, if you need to use nails, go with the half inch nails in the areas of concern if you cannot safely accomodate the 3/4 inch nails. if you are considering mixing nails and going with a bright finish, check that the nail head size is identical between the different nails. if you are painting over them, not an issue. - remember that the rear deck is relatively flat and does not need a lot of bending pressure to hold the deck in place. so if the problem is isolated to the rear section, i would consider using strapping tape to hold the deck down and dispense with nails. it’s easy to do, especially on the rear, and i have built several chesapeakes without nails using strapping tape instead to provide the bending force. - the foredeck is another situation entirely with significant force required to bend the deck to the required curve. this can be done with strapping tape but to do this section with strapping tape you would need to trim the deck to be a closer fit to the hull. otherwise, your strapping can easily break the deck with the significant overhangs in the untrimmed state. - depending on your finish scheme you can easily mix and match - my chesapeakes were all painted with the paint coming up onto an outside ring on the deck. so none of my nails, or non-nails, are showing. a bright finish requires a lot more care to make it all look nice with the nails. a bright finish without nails is easier with straps and no nails becuase you don’t have to worry about perfect nail placement and driving them all perfectly straight. - below is picture of chesapeake in yellow livery nailed but nails not showing. this was an early boat and several of the nail placements were way less than on the money. - ---
**Author:** ![Robert\_Luke\_Battenfe](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/r/d26b3c/32.png) [@Robert\_Luke\_Battenfe](https://forum.clcboats.com/u/Robert_Luke_Battenfe)\ **Post date:** [August 26, 2026, 1:32am UTC](https://forum.clcboats.com/t/shear-clamps-planned-too-thin/72320/8 "2026-08-26T01:32:10Z")
Mark, I found the Fairwinds nails. West Marine sells them too but apparently they are out of the ½”. The manual says to use either 14 or 15 gauge ring nails. Which gauge would you recommend? Rob ---
**Author:** ![Robert\_Luke\_Battenfe](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/r/d26b3c/32.png) [@Robert\_Luke\_Battenfe](https://forum.clcboats.com/u/Robert_Luke_Battenfe)\ **Post date:** [August 26, 2026, 2:45am UTC](https://forum.clcboats.com/t/shear-clamps-planned-too-thin/72320/9 "2026-08-26T02:45:32Z")
Howard, I started the project thing I wanted a bright finish but was holding off a final decision to see how things went. So I think I am at the point now to decide that painting the hull up to the deck with a ring, as you have done, is the way to go. I was actually considering a light yellow (Fighting Lady from Petit) since our fiberglass boats are yellow. We like the visibility. I’ll use the shorter nails in the low spots and/or snip the ends off where I can. I was going to dry fit the decks and see what I am dealing with. Thanks again. RobSent from for iOS. ---
**Author:** ![Mark\_Nye](https://yyz1.discourse-cdn.com/flex007/user_avatar/forum.clcboats.com/mark_nye/32/18_2.png) [@Mark\_Nye](https://forum.clcboats.com/u/Mark_Nye)\ **Post date:** [August 26, 2026, 12:35pm UTC](https://forum.clcboats.com/t/shear-clamps-planned-too-thin/72320/10 "2026-08-26T12:35:23Z")
This was not caused by a planing error unless you cut deeply into the plywood side panels. Assuming that the shear clamps were the correct dimensions (3/4 x 1”) and that they were glued on in the correct orientation, it is probable that the shear clamps were glued in excess of 1/4” proud of the side panels. Looking at some of your July pictures, that appears to be the case although it is hard to get scale from pictures. Regarding nails, there is not much difference between 14 and 15 gauge so I don’t think that it matters. The manual says either is ok. I have used either paint or stain on the hull of all my plywood builds. I find all bright okoume boats to be monotonous to look at. Paint around the edge of the deck will hide both the end grain on the sides of the deck and the nails. Automotive pin stripe decals are an easy way to hide a less than perfect paint masking job. ![33270737228_e0ddab8f53_o](https://canada1.discourse-cdn.com/flex007/uploads/clc/original/2X/c/c816d01fff74839509ec107fea7239a235dd88ae.jpeg) ![52022256165_bc675ff09f_o](https://canada1.discourse-cdn.com/flex007/uploads/clc/original/2X/9/94f15e18b59efa1357a1e49b76c2dafabadc3f44.jpeg) ![32204081197_56346baebc_o](https://canada1.discourse-cdn.com/flex007/uploads/clc/original/2X/b/bff80b8fcdf848e977f22f6bb90dc9d120603903.jpeg) ---
**Author:** ![Robert\_Luke\_Battenfe](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/r/d26b3c/32.png) [@Robert\_Luke\_Battenfe](https://forum.clcboats.com/u/Robert_Luke_Battenfe)\ **Post date:** [August 26, 2026, 3:01pm UTC](https://forum.clcboats.com/t/shear-clamps-planned-too-thin/72320/11 "2026-08-26T15:01:23Z")
Mark, I think you are probably right about the shear panels. I did mark them before gluing them to the sides. They were at the correct orientation withe the 1” side proud. They measure 3/4” across. I do remember that the resin set fast and I had to rush to get them on the side panels. It was hot in the garage. That experience taught me to work with the resin earlier in the morning. Some areas may have been a bit proud. My next boat will be better (and smaller)! Thanks again. Rob ---
**Author:** ![Robert\_Luke\_Battenfe](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/r/d26b3c/32.png) [@Robert\_Luke\_Battenfe](https://forum.clcboats.com/u/Robert_Luke_Battenfe)\ **Post date:** [August 26, 2026, 3:47pm UTC](https://forum.clcboats.com/t/shear-clamps-planned-too-thin/72320/12 "2026-08-26T15:47:41Z")
Mark, Nice work by the way. I like the pin striping. Rob ---
**Author:** ![Doug\_Finlayson](https://yyz1.discourse-cdn.com/flex007/user_avatar/forum.clcboats.com/doug_finlayson/32/23_2.png) [@Doug\_Finlayson](https://forum.clcboats.com/u/Doug_Finlayson)\ **Post date:** [August 26, 2026, 8:55pm UTC](https://forum.clcboats.com/t/shear-clamps-planned-too-thin/72320/13 "2026-08-26T20:55:10Z")
If you don’t want to wait for 1/2” nails I would suggest that you snip the nails to the appropriate length with some diagonal cutting pliers. I would make the cut on an angle in order to have a point on the end ![IMG_7565](https://canada1.discourse-cdn.com/flex007/uploads/clc/original/2X/2/26553eeef8135d9c65357f1b1f5e6e11526c4408.jpeg) ---
**Author:** ![Robert\_Luke\_Battenfe](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/r/d26b3c/32.png) [@Robert\_Luke\_Battenfe](https://forum.clcboats.com/u/Robert_Luke_Battenfe)\ **Post date:** [August 26, 2026, 9:39pm UTC](https://forum.clcboats.com/t/shear-clamps-planned-too-thin/72320/14 "2026-08-26T21:39:34Z")
Doug, I have one of those. I’ll try it out as you suggest. Thanks! Rob ---
**Author:** ![David\_Dewitt1](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/d/8c91f0/32.png) [@David\_Dewitt1](https://forum.clcboats.com/u/David_Dewitt1)\ **Post date:** [August 26, 2026, 10:07pm UTC](https://forum.clcboats.com/t/shear-clamps-planned-too-thin/72320/15 "2026-08-26T22:07:45Z")
Well I have built a bunch of kayaks decked with 3mm ply and never used a single nail to attached the deck to the sheer clamps. One can use nylon webbing straps with plywood blocks under the straps on top of the plywood along the edges of the deck. Nails are totally unnecessary regardless of what the plans say.. ---
**Author:** ![Robert\_Luke\_Battenfe](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/r/d26b3c/32.png) [@Robert\_Luke\_Battenfe](https://forum.clcboats.com/u/Robert_Luke_Battenfe)\ **Post date:** [August 27, 2026, 1:47am UTC](https://forum.clcboats.com/t/shear-clamps-planned-too-thin/72320/16 "2026-08-27T01:47:52Z")
Mark, I was looking through early photos of my build. The attached photo showed the port side (right side in the photo) a bit skewed in relation to the starboard (left in the photo). I only have a photo of the bow but it was the same in the stern. Would this be the reason, in addition to being too proud, I needed to removed so much material on the port side to get the angles correct? Rob ![](https://canada1.discourse-cdn.com/flex007/uploads/clc/original/2X/d/dc9008bf2f85fdf79b9ea0410fd08f8247f12d89.jpeg) ---
**Author:** ![Robert\_Luke\_Battenfe](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/r/d26b3c/32.png) [@Robert\_Luke\_Battenfe](https://forum.clcboats.com/u/Robert_Luke_Battenfe)\ **Post date:** [August 27, 2026, 1:00pm UTC](https://forum.clcboats.com/t/shear-clamps-planned-too-thin/72320/17 "2026-08-27T13:00:49Z")
David, Does one need to cut the deck to fit the hull before strapping? ---
**Author:** ![David\_Dewitt1](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/d/8c91f0/32.png) [@David\_Dewitt1](https://forum.clcboats.com/u/David_Dewitt1)\ **Post date:** [August 27, 2026, 10:19pm UTC](https://forum.clcboats.com/t/shear-clamps-planned-too-thin/72320/18 "2026-08-27T22:19:16Z")
No. Leave the deck overhang the hull by say 1/8th to 1/4. Once the deck is in place either plane or sand flush to the hull. You don’t want too much overhang as you don’t want the downward pressure of the straps cracking the deck. Here is a picture with a few straps on but typically I will use 10 or so for each half. I am also using a bag of gravel at the bow but recently I have started to use discarded car batteries on the flat sections of the deck. Weights from a bar bell set are also great. I look at nails as a great path for water ingest and eventual rot. The deck on this boat (16’) goes on in 3 pieces. The bow piece ends at the center of the masik. The 8’ piece goes from center of masik to almost the stern. I finally small piece is needed for the stern. This boat has a totally flat rear deck so there batteries are an ideal clamp ![IMG_0109](https://canada1.discourse-cdn.com/flex007/uploads/clc/original/2X/0/092233058479ff41b4efe445534161586d02d6e2.jpeg) ---
**Author:** ![Robert\_Luke\_Battenfe](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/r/d26b3c/32.png) [@Robert\_Luke\_Battenfe](https://forum.clcboats.com/u/Robert_Luke_Battenfe)\ **Post date:** [August 28, 2026, 1:28am UTC](https://forum.clcboats.com/t/shear-clamps-planned-too-thin/72320/19 "2026-08-28T01:28:55Z")
David, Thanks for the tips. Rob ---
**Author:** ![Laszlo\_Morocz](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/l/c68b51/32.png) [@Laszlo\_Morocz](https://forum.clcboats.com/u/Laszlo_Morocz)\ **Post date:** [August 28, 2026, 11:46am UTC](https://forum.clcboats.com/t/shear-clamps-planned-too-thin/72320/20 "2026-08-28T11:46:10Z")
I’ve also used straps and, as David says, left the overhang narrow. Not so much to avoid cracking, but because a larger overhang causes the deck to come out wobbly. The straps compress the deck against the sheer clamps, but the area between the straps is looser. It works but can look funny. And if you’re trying for a nice paint job you have to fill and sand because without the distraction of the grain lines the wobbles really show up, especially with glossy paint and raking sunshine. So nails have the big advantage of applying more even pressure distribution. However, metal fasteners in wooden boats have all sorts of other problems so I really like to avoid them. My compromise is recognizing that _permanent_ metal fasteners are the problem and using temporary ones, instead. That last couple of boats I used 3/4" inch drywall screws driven through postage stamp-sized pieces of 1/4" okoume scrap to hold the deck in place while the glue cures. Then I removed the screws, drilled out the screw holes and plugged them with dowels. A bit of sanding and I had a nice smooth deck with no metal fasteners. This also had the advantage that I could dry fit the deck and trim it very closely to final size before gluing it. The downside (and there’s always a downside) is that this process is labor intensive. You have to cut and drill the wooden pads that protect the deck from overtightened screws, screw in over a hundred screws (or more, depending on which boat) take out all those screws to apply the glue, put them back to hold the deck on while gluing, take them out again and cut and insert a dowel into each hole (after drilling out the hole). But it sure makes a good looking deck that you can put on without a helper. It also lets you completely test-fit the deck before applying the glue. So lots of choices. Have fun, Laszlo [Next page](https://forum.clcboats.com/t/shear-clamps-planned-too-thin/72320.md?page=2)