# Skerry Build in Port Orchard WA

**URL:** <https://forum.clcboats.com/t/skerry-build-in-port-orchard-wa/43998>\
**Category:** Builder's Forum\
**Created:** [April 12, 2016, 12:26pm UTC](https://forum.clcboats.com/t/skerry-build-in-port-orchard-wa/43998 "2016-04-12T12:26:27Z")\
**Posts on this page:** 2\
**Page:** 1

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**Author:** ![Samuel\_Mills](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/s/ea5d25/32.png) [@Samuel\_Mills](https://forum.clcboats.com/u/Samuel_Mills)\
**Post date:** [April 12, 2016, 12:26pm UTC](https://forum.clcboats.com/t/skerry-build-in-port-orchard-wa/43998/1 "2016-04-12T12:26:27Z")

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Hello,

&nbsp;

I am getting ready to start my Skerry build and I have some questions about notes I wrote myself in the instructions.

1) Is it beneficial to apply epoxy to the bulkheads and seats&nbsp;prior to installing them in the boat, or will this impact the ability of the fillits to hold?

2) Is it easier (less likely to make a mistake) to cut the slot for the dagger board prior to installing the trunk? What about cutting the slot prior to stitching together the hull?

3) Is it easier/more accurate to mark the centerline of the hull for the skeg prior to stitching together the hull and adding a third dimension?

4) One step says to use a sander to round exposed edges of the frames prior to coating with epoxy. Can I use a router for this prior to installing the frames as it should give a more consistent shape?

This is my first build, and this forum has been very helpful.&nbsp; Thanks in advance for all your help.

Sam

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**Author:** ![Hooper\_Williams](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/h/b5ac83/32.png) [@Hooper\_Williams](https://forum.clcboats.com/u/Hooper_Williams)\
**Post date:** [April 12, 2016, 12:58pm UTC](https://forum.clcboats.com/t/skerry-build-in-port-orchard-wa/43998/2 "2016-04-12T12:58:05Z")

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&nbsp; &nbsp;Welcome to the club Sam! &nbsp;There are a lot of participants on this forum with much more knowledge and experience than me, but I'll start. &nbsp;I'm in the final stages of my first Skerry/boat build.

1) &nbsp;It's easy enough to apply epoxy to the bulkheads after installation and the fillets may theoretically bond a little better to bare wood. &nbsp;You pretty much have to apply epoxy to the underside, at least, of the bow and stern seat as you do not have access to that side after installation. &nbsp;I went ahead and did both sides of all three seats prior.

2) If you have a router, it is very easy to cut the daggerboard slot after installation of the trunk and, I'm sure, more accurate. &nbsp;After the trunk is installed, use a small drill bit on a long extension to drill a hole in the hull from the top side through the daggerboard trunk. &nbsp;This ensures you are correctly oriented. &nbsp;Then from the outside, enlarge the hole and use a flush trim bit with a roller bearing to cut out the slot. &nbsp;After that, go around again with a roundover bit, if desired.

3) The center-line could change slightly as the hull comes together. &nbsp;It was very easy to mark it at the time suggested in the directions. &nbsp;I used a chalk line and it seemed to work well.

4) I rounded over all the exposed bulkhead edges with a router before installation. &nbsp;It was fast and easy and they look good.

Keep us informed about your progress.

Hooper Williams - Brevard, NC