# Tenderly Bow Eye

**URL:** <https://forum.clcboats.com/t/tenderly-bow-eye/46273>\
**Category:** Builder's Forum\
**Created:** [June 5, 2018, 4:05pm UTC](https://forum.clcboats.com/t/tenderly-bow-eye/46273 "2018-06-05T16:05:42Z")\
**Posts on this page:** 15\
**Page:** 1

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**Author:** ![Jack\_Blodgett](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/j/b5a626/32.png) [@Jack\_Blodgett](https://forum.clcboats.com/u/Jack_Blodgett)\
**Post date:** [June 5, 2018, 4:05pm UTC](https://forum.clcboats.com/t/tenderly-bow-eye/46273/1 "2018-06-05T16:05:42Z")

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Has anyone opted to install a bow eye instead of the hole w/ knotted painter in their Tenderly? &nbsp;If so, what did you use and how did you do it? &nbsp;Thinking maybe a nice bronze one - maybe handier for trailering...?

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**Author:** ![Jack\_Maddox](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/j/e8c25b/32.png) [@Jack\_Maddox](https://forum.clcboats.com/u/Jack_Maddox)\
**Post date:** [June 5, 2018, 4:52pm UTC](https://forum.clcboats.com/t/tenderly-bow-eye/46273/2 "2018-06-05T16:52:53Z")

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Shoemaker

Check the link below for a picture of the brass fitting I used on my Skerry.&nbsp; I added a V shaped block inside to reinforce the bow where the bolt passed thru.&nbsp; I also used bedding compound under the fitting.

Good Luck

&nbsp;

[https://photos.app.goo.gl/wVPiNdZ06u4I59MV2](https://photos.app.goo.gl/wVPiNdZ06u4I59MV2)&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;

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<div class="post-metadata">

**Author:** ![Jack\_Maddox](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/j/e8c25b/32.png) [@Jack\_Maddox](https://forum.clcboats.com/u/Jack_Maddox)\
**Post date:** [June 5, 2018, 4:57pm UTC](https://forum.clcboats.com/t/tenderly-bow-eye/46273/3 "2018-06-05T16:57:12Z")

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Here is a picture of the fitting on my Sassafras 16.&nbsp;&nbsp;

[https://photos.app.goo.gl/bRziC5lgpkLuCYCu1](https://photos.app.goo.gl/bRziC5lgpkLuCYCu1)&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;

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<div class="post-metadata">

**Author:** ![Jack\_Blodgett](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/j/b5a626/32.png) [@Jack\_Blodgett](https://forum.clcboats.com/u/Jack_Blodgett)\
**Post date:** [June 5, 2018, 5:33pm UTC](https://forum.clcboats.com/t/tenderly-bow-eye/46273/4 "2018-06-05T17:33:09Z")

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&nbsp; &nbsp;Thanks very much! &nbsp;Very helpful!

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**Author:** ![Mark\_Nye](https://yyz1.discourse-cdn.com/flex007/user_avatar/forum.clcboats.com/mark_nye/32/18_2.png) [@Mark\_Nye](https://forum.clcboats.com/u/Mark_Nye)\
**Post date:** [June 5, 2018, 5:49pm UTC](https://forum.clcboats.com/t/tenderly-bow-eye/46273/5 "2018-06-05T17:49:53Z")

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Duckworks sells a nice bronze one.&nbsp; Not the best picture of it but you can see it.

![](https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/U60FZrWMaNzKPICx0yiSLzWAO93y3tN3PwDZCu19cXYC_LWGeMM0RPyuaEm7fKI7ETZMLcABdwXeMwkqN9vO1tuvo9tc2wj6XZ9T8bM3WU8LDhE5xcynQR00zKt4i7vO9bF56N8kA_H3Fn1mD9YmS3xS2IDdPRnLyuttQej4w3HhOboSLlKHn9i3YABvw3NVX-EsDDSvYkaPaztfoandyurbah3uG6nGmVts9gWVdprI-ROeigNgyTlkS3R4uJn6OWyf9EX4qhWxzGxJ3ubOjPesnhSofoezWm0h1WKYH99yuVxtQhixzAdBpbRQeJ-N2iNwlGKgg1bUjoIcn-tEeYbF_Ai3nE50j4NZkjC4p6Vzy6GnfI8xzx9QjHhzVa-OYG2ROEdDoidZTqMIAjx8jm1oFvHs61HH2psKz8LV-Se59Nrc5zGB0c2Sm-YwZ1kywP0h46Gf3ts-tnpu1APObFacBEzw-7wXHArhOS52P9ipThr0n08ygArLqxs75PwEVDXNmIKIEfMr_X85XXNBaA4uQkFGjJhTMJ4E6Wx22bnCrXcq8Uc0wUe-K23FLeEvLk5SkRiyETnAsnqxUx81G4GprTyHDWckggcLg4CINz3S9h7erBQRPCmM6XeRWhtWtz0LJayR6jytfxv56tGstV3Ep3RleV-N=w1204-h903-no)

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<div class="post-metadata">

**Author:** ![Jack\_Blodgett](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/j/b5a626/32.png) [@Jack\_Blodgett](https://forum.clcboats.com/u/Jack_Blodgett)\
**Post date:** [June 5, 2018, 10:59pm UTC](https://forum.clcboats.com/t/tenderly-bow-eye/46273/6 "2018-06-05T22:59:51Z")

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&nbsp; &nbsp;Thanks, Mark. &nbsp;Just what I was looking for. &nbsp;Forgot to check out Duckworks. &nbsp;Also thanks for the trailer info under another post. &nbsp; Not sure if dealers around here (New Hampshire) carry Continental, but I’ll check. &nbsp;I’m also looking at Karavan and Loadrite. &nbsp;So far, dealers have seemed strangely tentative over whether their smallest trailers can accommodate a 10’ boat.

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**Author:** ![Hooper\_Williams](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/h/b5ac83/32.png) [@Hooper\_Williams](https://forum.clcboats.com/u/Hooper_Williams)\
**Post date:** [June 6, 2018, 11:47am UTC](https://forum.clcboats.com/t/tenderly-bow-eye/46273/7 "2018-06-06T11:47:00Z")

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&nbsp; &nbsp;A little pricey and a lot of extra work, but this is what I put on my Skerry.&nbsp; Outboard for painter and anchor rode and inboard for forestay and jib tack:

![](https://c2.staticflickr.com/2/1551/26005721725_4fdf873a24_b.jpg)

![](https://c2.staticflickr.com/2/1518/25376985763_58a4d03217_b.jpg)Hooper

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**Author:** ![Jeff\_Richards](https://yyz1.discourse-cdn.com/flex007/user_avatar/forum.clcboats.com/jeff_richards/32/29_2.png) [@Jeff\_Richards](https://forum.clcboats.com/u/Jeff_Richards)\
**Post date:** [June 6, 2018, 1:29pm UTC](https://forum.clcboats.com/t/tenderly-bow-eye/46273/8 "2018-06-06T13:29:33Z")

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&nbsp; &nbsp;I used the exact same double bow eye as pictured by Hooper (above) on my NE dory.&nbsp; I really like the fact that my painter stays permanently tied on through one eye, yet I can still attach the trailer winch hook without any risk of pinching the painter, or anchor rode whenever needed.&nbsp; On the inside I just flattened out the filet a bit with the grinder and used a big washer under the nut, plenty strong.&nbsp; Even so, and even though I don't have a forestay, if I did it again I'd put some type of loop or attachment or second eye on the inside too (as Hooper did), just to add another tie-off point for spare gear or whatever.&nbsp; Could be as simple as a loop formed from a bent piece of stainless or brass flat stock placed under the nut.&nbsp; Very nice guy at Bay of Maine boats will hook you up with a bow eye.&nbsp;http://www.bayofmaineboats.com/boweye.htm&nbsp;

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<div class="post-metadata">

**Author:** ![Jack\_Blodgett](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/j/b5a626/32.png) [@Jack\_Blodgett](https://forum.clcboats.com/u/Jack_Blodgett)\
**Post date:** [June 6, 2018, 5:57pm UTC](https://forum.clcboats.com/t/tenderly-bow-eye/46273/9 "2018-06-06T17:57:44Z")

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&nbsp; &nbsp;Thanks Hooper and Bubblehead. &nbsp;Very nice work. &nbsp;Bubblehead answered one of my unspoken questions by describing the washer against fillet setup on the inside. &nbsp;You do think it’s strong enough? &nbsp;Did you saw off the bolt after the nut? &nbsp;Thanks also for the reference to bayofmaineboats.

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<div class="post-metadata">

**Author:** ![Hooper\_Williams](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/h/b5ac83/32.png) [@Hooper\_Williams](https://forum.clcboats.com/u/Hooper_Williams)\
**Post date:** [June 6, 2018, 7:37pm UTC](https://forum.clcboats.com/t/tenderly-bow-eye/46273/10 "2018-06-06T19:37:34Z")

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&nbsp; &nbsp;I asked John Harris the same question before I even ordered my kit. &nbsp;He said the filet alone is plenty strong enough. &nbsp;I just used the “faux stem” to help hide the bolt and to provide a place to mount the inboard eye.

Hooper

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<div class="post-metadata">

**Author:** ![Jeff\_Richards](https://yyz1.discourse-cdn.com/flex007/user_avatar/forum.clcboats.com/jeff_richards/32/29_2.png) [@Jeff\_Richards](https://forum.clcboats.com/u/Jeff_Richards)\
**Post date:** [June 7, 2018, 4:45pm UTC](https://forum.clcboats.com/t/tenderly-bow-eye/46273/11 "2018-06-07T16:45:22Z")

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&nbsp; &nbsp;Shoemaker,

To my memory the brass bow eye came with stainless threaded rod and a stainless nut.&nbsp; The rod can be unscrewed from the eye.&nbsp;

So, a few seconds after I hit "post" I remembered that I went out an bought a brass pan head slotted machine screw that fit the bow eye (because I worked hard to keep everything traditional = brass on my boat, and because at this diameter the brass bolt would surely be stong enough in this application).&nbsp; So, I test-fit the thing for length and cut it just short enough to make sure it would get almost full engagement into the eye and still tighten down.&nbsp; In short, I have a brass fender washer under a brass pan head showing on the inside of the bow - with screw slot aligned, of course.

&nbsp;

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<div class="post-metadata">

**Author:** ![Jack\_Blodgett](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/j/b5a626/32.png) [@Jack\_Blodgett](https://forum.clcboats.com/u/Jack_Blodgett)\
**Post date:** [June 7, 2018, 5:45pm UTC](https://forum.clcboats.com/t/tenderly-bow-eye/46273/12 "2018-06-07T17:45:23Z")

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&nbsp; &nbsp;Thanks, Hooper, for John’s assurance about the fillet. &nbsp;Mine looks pretty robust, and I’d rather not add reinforcement material there if I can get away with just the fillet. &nbsp;Bubblehead, thanks for the idea about keeping the brass look on the inside. &nbsp;Never would have thought of that!

&nbsp;

&nbsp;

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**Author:** ![Chris\_Larsen](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/c/c77e96/32.png) [@Chris\_Larsen](https://forum.clcboats.com/u/Chris_Larsen)\
**Post date:** [June 8, 2018, 1:20pm UTC](https://forum.clcboats.com/t/tenderly-bow-eye/46273/13 "2018-06-08T13:20:59Z")

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Hey Hooper,

Thanks for posting that!&nbsp; I want to do the double-double inside/outside version.

1)&nbsp; Can you tell me what those double bow eyes cost?&nbsp; I couldn't find any pricing on the website/brochure.

2)&nbsp; So you bought 2 and connected them with a mating threaded stud?&nbsp; The "throat" for the threaded part seems pretty long.&nbsp; Did they mate up through your stem?&nbsp; I want to use them with a pram, so my bow transom isn't that thick.&nbsp; Maybe I'll try to connect them through the bow knee.&nbsp; Could you describe your process?

Thanks,  
  
Chris

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**Author:** ![Hooper\_Williams](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/h/b5ac83/32.png) [@Hooper\_Williams](https://forum.clcboats.com/u/Hooper_Williams)\
**Post date:** [June 9, 2018, 8:47am UTC](https://forum.clcboats.com/t/tenderly-bow-eye/46273/14 "2018-06-09T08:47:27Z")

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&nbsp; Chris,

It's been awhile, but it seems like the cost was 30+ dollers each.&nbsp; Bay of Maine did not provide bolts, etc as they said every application is different and I'm sure that's true.&nbsp; I think I got SB bolts, nuts and washers from Jamestown Distributors.&nbsp; If I find out, in a few days, that I'm far off on the cost I'll let you know.&nbsp; Part of my rigging problem was that I was using the manual for the passagemaker as that is what the gunter-sloop was originally intended for.&nbsp; Everything connected to the bow knee and my Skerry did not have one.&nbsp; Having a bow knee should greatly simplify things for you.&nbsp;

My outboard and inboard eyes do not connect to each other, but they are both bolted into the "faux stem."&nbsp; That was a lot of work, but for me that was part of the fun and it did turn out to be very usefull.&nbsp; Some more pics:

&nbsp; ![](https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/574/21400541332_e7df6ef5ee_b.jpg)

&nbsp; ![](https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/588/21385178866_539af2f88f_b.jpg)

![](https://c2.staticflickr.com/6/5723/20788716614_989a5520f7_b.jpg)

![](https://c2.staticflickr.com/6/5731/21400540842_35b8bafd16_b.jpg)

![](https://c2.staticflickr.com/2/1633/25910779511_d3c3f4bd11_b.jpg)

![](https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/881/28536441928_439abe9d68_b.jpg)

I didn't think the boat would seem right with a stem but no stern post so I also made a "faux stern post."&nbsp; It does nothing.

Hooper

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<div class="post-metadata">

**Author:** ![Chris\_Larsen](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/c/c77e96/32.png) [@Chris\_Larsen](https://forum.clcboats.com/u/Chris_Larsen)\
**Post date:** [June 9, 2018, 10:40am UTC](https://forum.clcboats.com/t/tenderly-bow-eye/46273/15 "2018-06-09T10:40:05Z")

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Thank you SO much Hooper.&nbsp; That's the exact info I was looking for.&nbsp; Also, the pics are great.

I'm putting my order in!
