# Trick to use deck trimming guide?

**URL:** https://forum.clcboats.com/t/trick-to-use-deck-trimming-guide/72427
**Category:** Builder's Forum
**Created:** [September 24, 2026, 11:45pm UTC](https://forum.clcboats.com/t/trick-to-use-deck-trimming-guide/72427 "2026-09-24T23:45:05Z")
**Posts on this page:** 10
**Page:** 1

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### Author: ![Robert\_Luke\_Battenfe](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/r/d26b3c/32.png) [@Robert\_Luke\_Battenfe](https://forum.clcboats.com/u/Robert_Luke_Battenfe)
#### Post date: [September 24, 2026, 11:45pm UTC](https://forum.clcboats.com/t/trick-to-use-deck-trimming-guide/72427/1 "2026-09-24T23:45:05Z")

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I’ve installed the deck on my Chesapeake 16LT. I am ready to trim the deck but was not successful using the provided trim guide. As I move it along the hull it grabs and I cannot get a straight line. Is there a trick to this? I couldn’t draw a straight line with the nail guide either so just used it to measure for each individual nail. Should I do the same for the trim guide? Mark a few inches , trim, mark the next section, etc? I read in the forum here that a router can be used but I am a bit hesitate to use it on my boat. Thanks.

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### Author: ![Laszlo\_Morocz](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/l/c68b51/32.png) [@Laszlo\_Morocz](https://forum.clcboats.com/u/Laszlo_Morocz)
#### Post date: [September 25, 2026, 12:47am UTC](https://forum.clcboats.com/t/trick-to-use-deck-trimming-guide/72427/2 "2026-09-25T00:47:23Z")

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Yeah, no router for your first boat. Save that for boat #2 or later. I’m actually happy doing mine with a razor saw and rasp.

What’s the guide grabbing? Is the guide smooth or does it need sanding? Or is it the hull?

Laszlo

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### Author: ![Robert\_Luke\_Battenfe](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/r/d26b3c/32.png) [@Robert\_Luke\_Battenfe](https://forum.clcboats.com/u/Robert_Luke_Battenfe)
#### Post date: [September 25, 2026, 2:42am UTC](https://forum.clcboats.com/t/trick-to-use-deck-trimming-guide/72427/3 "2026-09-25T02:42:27Z")

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Laszlo,

I haven’t sanded the hull yet so there are high spots. And not all the glue from the shear clamps dripped down (into the deck overhang) when I flipped the boat over. But you gave me an idea that maybe I could sand the guide or even fold some this paper around it to see if it glides easier. Would a little paste wax work or would that leave a residue unsuitable for the paint?

Rob

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### Author: ![David\_Dewitt1](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/d/8c91f0/32.png) [@David\_Dewitt1](https://forum.clcboats.com/u/David_Dewitt1)
#### Post date: [September 25, 2026, 9:45am UTC](https://forum.clcboats.com/t/trick-to-use-deck-trimming-guide/72427/4 "2026-09-25T09:45:55Z")

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No wax for sure. I tried a palm router once with a bottom bearing bit once. Too scary. Now I just use my small Festool sander with 120 grit paper so I can go really slowly but I first protect the hull with two layers of masking tape.

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### Author: ![Jon\_Ferguson](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/j/d9b06d/32.png) [@Jon\_Ferguson](https://forum.clcboats.com/u/Jon_Ferguson)
#### Post date: [September 25, 2026, 11:02am UTC](https://forum.clcboats.com/t/trick-to-use-deck-trimming-guide/72427/5 "2026-09-25T11:02:12Z")

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I used a trim router for the deck of my boat both for cutting it flush to the footwell, and rounding it over. I did not have much experience with routers before building the boat. It went okay, not perfect, but okay. Following your build I think it introduces a real risk of making trouble for you and I second the others advice. If you’ve never used a router before it’s kind of like holding a little tornado in your hands. It’s a great tool and you can do lot of cool stuff with it but you can also ruin your whole day in the blink of an eye. I practiced routing on scrap A LOT before I went near my boat.

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### Author: ![Robert\_Luke\_Battenfe](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/r/d26b3c/32.png) [@Robert\_Luke\_Battenfe](https://forum.clcboats.com/u/Robert_Luke_Battenfe)
#### Post date: [September 25, 2026, 1:18pm UTC](https://forum.clcboats.com/t/trick-to-use-deck-trimming-guide/72427/6 "2026-09-25T13:18:45Z")

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Jon,

A “little tornado!” Very apt. I’d end up in the “Land of Sorrow” instead of the Land of Oz. I just took a router basics class at my local Woodcraft store, but still. I actually was thinking I could use my Dremel with a router attachment on the cockpit cowling but I think I’ll do everything but sanding by hand. Thanks.

Rob

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### Author: ![Robert\_Luke\_Battenfe](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/r/d26b3c/32.png) [@Robert\_Luke\_Battenfe](https://forum.clcboats.com/u/Robert_Luke_Battenfe)
#### Post date: [September 25, 2026, 1:31pm UTC](https://forum.clcboats.com/t/trick-to-use-deck-trimming-guide/72427/7 "2026-09-25T13:31:01Z")

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David,

Thanks. I may try thin paper first to see if it helps. I may try to tape a pencil to the guide to make it easier to control. I might just be that I am pressing too hard or moving too fast with the guide. Good idea taping the deck before I start cutting.

Rob

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### Author: ![Mark\_Nye](https://yyz1.discourse-cdn.com/flex007/user_avatar/forum.clcboats.com/mark_nye/32/18_2.png) [@Mark\_Nye](https://forum.clcboats.com/u/Mark_Nye)
#### Post date: [September 25, 2026, 11:01pm UTC](https://forum.clcboats.com/t/trick-to-use-deck-trimming-guide/72427/8 "2026-09-25T23:01:27Z")

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I suspect that you are pressing too hard and moving too fast. The alternative is to make a mark every 6” then fair a line along the marks. This does not have to be too accurate because you will cut the deck OUTSIDE of the line, then go back with your favorite sander/plane/rasp to remove the excess. My favorite tool for cutting the deck is a Japanese razor saw but have have also used the smaller bonsai saw. The other tip is to make sure that you hold the saw vertical so it does not gouge the hull.

Most definitely NO WAX which can interfere with epoxy curing.

Cutting the deck on Chesapeake Sport Tandem with razor saw.

 ![55324571844_bd0ea9a03f_o](https://canada1.discourse-cdn.com/flex007/uploads/clc/original/2X/a/ab5417ed3e91a76f604e45c2f55e0238d8a9f8ff.jpeg)

Bonsai saw, razor saw and Shinto rasp L to R.

 ![20260925_124456598_iOS](https://canada1.discourse-cdn.com/flex007/uploads/clc/original/2X/3/35c3edabcd69aea8c8d7a2adde2396974827660d.jpeg)

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### Author: ![Robert\_Luke\_Battenfe](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/r/d26b3c/32.png) [@Robert\_Luke\_Battenfe](https://forum.clcboats.com/u/Robert_Luke_Battenfe)
#### Post date: [September 26, 2026, 12:23am UTC](https://forum.clcboats.com/t/trick-to-use-deck-trimming-guide/72427/9 "2026-09-26T00:23:30Z")

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Mark,

I actually got one side about an 1/8 inch to fair. I did what you are suggesting. I eased up and drew a line, then check with the guide about every 3” ( at a nail). Then I made dotted lines an 1/8 inch from the line. I cut using a Japanese backsaw but I made several cuts to sneak up to the line. I stopped about a 1/4 from the hull and planed the rest almost to the hull. I will do the other side the same tomorrow and then use the plan and sander to match the hull. I have the Shinto rasp but not a bonsai saw. I used the rasp on the edge of the deck. I am not sure how but I had drips from the shear lamp glue on top of the deck. They appears to be drips from when I flipped the boat over. They were making it difficult to draw a line.

There were drips on the outside of the hull also but I used a scraper and sanded them down a bit so the guide would pass over them. (They will be under the paint line on the deck). I did notice that when I flipped the boat over there were a few gaps. I added more thicken epoxy but when I came back later the gaps were back. They are still there but I assume I can add more thickened epoxy in those spots. Perhaps if I can get to them inside the cockpit I can tape the inside. Or mix thicker epoxy?

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### Author: ![Dusty](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/d/a183cd/32.png) [@Dusty](https://forum.clcboats.com/u/Dusty)
#### Post date: [September 26, 2026, 7:58pm UTC](https://forum.clcboats.com/t/trick-to-use-deck-trimming-guide/72427/10 "2026-09-26T19:58:02Z")

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Not a productive reply regarding your trim question because I don’t know what the guide looks like or how it is used but as a side note to some that you discussed:

With persistent gaps especially in areas that will not be seen, has anyone used foam [backer rod](https://www.homedepot.com/b/Building-Materials-Concrete-Cement-Masonry-Concrete-Parts-Accessories-Backer-Rods/N-5yc1vZ1z18g8r) as a filler before paving in more expoxy? It certainly proves useful for gap filling in many other applications.

And then a funny anecdote from my very early boatbuilding days - back in the mid-70s. The boss came into the joiner shop one particular day and saw me sneaking up on the pencil line on something or other, with my block plane. He came close pointed to the line (_maybe still a 1/16" or less to go_) as I was diligently but very carefully closing in on it and asked “what’s this?” I looked at him a bit perplexed and said “that’s my cut line”. I’ll never forget the reply from this guy who was paying me by the hour - “The line is there to cut to not to tantalize with your tools. Draw the line - make sure it’s what you want and cut to the line. Done! ”

Yeah right, I thought - until I mess it up then you’ll do the cutting your cranky SOB. (_That was my cleaned up version of my warm thoughts._) BUT - I heard and I took it to heart and as a challenge. I’ve learned to cut to the line, light sanding needed. (_40 + years and soooo many woodworking projects later_).

NOT that I am being a wise guy or trying to tell others how to approach their work - especially on first projects rife with angst and challenges galore. Enjoy the process and do your best in what ever way you care. Cheers Mates.
