# Varnish **URL:** \ **Category:** Builder's Forum\ **Created:** [April 30, 2008, 3:49pm UTC](https://forum.clcboats.com/t/varnish/33966 "2008-04-30T15:49:28Z")\ **Posts on this page:** 10\ **Page:** 1
**Author:** ![Jerry\_Mcmanus](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/j/e95f7d/32.png) [@Jerry\_Mcmanus](https://forum.clcboats.com/u/Jerry_Mcmanus)\ **Post date:** [April 30, 2008, 3:49pm UTC](https://forum.clcboats.com/t/varnish/33966/1 "2008-04-30T15:49:28Z")
A view from the cheap seats.  Okay, I’ve tried most of them – the $30+ per quart varnishes recommended by the kayak kit makers and various forums.  Most of them are good.  A couple are impossible because they claim to "remain flexible" and can’t be sanded properly.  I’m back to good old domestic, $10-$12 per quart, MINWAX Indoor/Outdoor Helmsman Spar Urethane Clear Gloss, available at my local hardware store.  Lots less $'s, it lays on easily (over System-Three and MAS resin) using a smooth foam roller/tipping with foam brush, dries to sand in 5-12 hours, has good gloss, good depth and polishes out great with marine wax and a buffer.  No, I don’t sell the stuff, just a happy user.  mtsailor    ---
**Author:** ![Randy\_Reitenauer](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/r/77aa72/32.png) [@Randy\_Reitenauer](https://forum.clcboats.com/u/Randy_Reitenauer)\ **Post date:** [May 5, 2008, 12:00pm UTC](https://forum.clcboats.com/t/varnish/33966/2 "2008-05-05T12:00:17Z")
Jerry:  I recently finished my LT17 and was thinking "I wonder if I can buff out this varnish with some wax . . ."  My question: does the wax interfere with subsequent coats of varnish next spring or the spring after that? ---
**Author:** ![Larry\_Brown](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/l/a587f6/32.png) [@Larry\_Brown](https://forum.clcboats.com/u/Larry_Brown)\ **Post date:** [May 5, 2008, 12:24pm UTC](https://forum.clcboats.com/t/varnish/33966/3 "2008-05-05T12:24:05Z")
Randy or anyone else: not to push another forum but on "kayakforum.com" there is a whole discussion on wax on varnish, check it out. ---
**Author:** ![Joseph\_Morgani](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/j/8baadc/32.png) [@Joseph\_Morgani](https://forum.clcboats.com/u/Joseph_Morgani)\ **Post date:** [May 5, 2008, 12:29pm UTC](https://forum.clcboats.com/t/varnish/33966/4 "2008-05-05T12:29:23Z")
You can wax over varnish (don’t know why you would want to) if you like but don’t try to varnish over wax, you need to varnish to varnish. It has to adhere to something, the varnish. Use wet 400 first. ---
**Author:** ![Jerry\_Mcmanus](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/j/e95f7d/32.png) [@Jerry\_Mcmanus](https://forum.clcboats.com/u/Jerry_Mcmanus)\ **Post date:** [May 5, 2008, 1:18pm UTC](https://forum.clcboats.com/t/varnish/33966/5 "2008-05-05T13:18:04Z")
Hi Randy:  You need to remove all wax before revarnishing.  Sanding and cleaning with paint thinner does the trick.  Of course, wax is not necessary, but it gives a nice shine and good depth to a varnished finish (old furniture restorer’s trick).  UV protection offered by 3M Marine wax can’t hurt either.  It’s possible to greatly increase the time between varnishings by rewaxing and buffing out surface scratches, varnishing only every few years.  Be sure the varnish is well cured (a few days, so) before waxing and buffing.     bromasi:  Thanks for the info on the other forum.  Jerry ---
**Author:** ![Laszlo\_Morocz](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/l/c68b51/32.png) [@Laszlo\_Morocz](https://forum.clcboats.com/u/Laszlo_Morocz)\ **Post date:** [May 5, 2008, 7:35pm UTC](https://forum.clcboats.com/t/varnish/33966/6 "2008-05-05T19:35:47Z")
I'd rather be out paddling than restoring kayak-shaped furniture :-) Laszlo   ---
**Author:** ![Jerry\_Mcmanus](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/j/e95f7d/32.png) [@Jerry\_Mcmanus](https://forum.clcboats.com/u/Jerry_Mcmanus)\ **Post date:** [May 5, 2008, 9:06pm UTC](https://forum.clcboats.com/t/varnish/33966/7 "2008-05-05T21:06:59Z")
Some build to build.  Some build to paddle.  Some try to build pretty boats to paddle proudly. To each his own.  Paddle on. ---
**Author:** ![Laszlo\_Morocz](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/l/c68b51/32.png) [@Laszlo\_Morocz](https://forum.clcboats.com/u/Laszlo_Morocz)\ **Post date:** [May 6, 2008, 8:05am UTC](https://forum.clcboats.com/t/varnish/33966/8 "2008-05-06T08:05:28Z")
Jerry, I was just trying to express my amazement t of those who have the patience to spend that kind of effort on the last .002 inches of a boat (and who end up producing all the best of show winners). No offense intended. Laszlo   ---
**Author:** ![Jerry\_Mcmanus](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/j/e95f7d/32.png) [@Jerry\_Mcmanus](https://forum.clcboats.com/u/Jerry_Mcmanus)\ **Post date:** [May 6, 2008, 10:00am UTC](https://forum.clcboats.com/t/varnish/33966/9 "2008-05-06T10:00:19Z")
None taken.  I meant in this group you will find great diversity.  That’s what makes boat builders such interesting people.  I’m just happy to be one of them, no matter where I fit in the pile.  Jer ---
**Author:** ![Randy\_Reitenauer](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/r/77aa72/32.png) [@Randy\_Reitenauer](https://forum.clcboats.com/u/Randy_Reitenauer)\ **Post date:** [May 6, 2008, 3:44pm UTC](https://forum.clcboats.com/t/varnish/33966/10 "2008-05-06T15:44:17Z")
I actually came to building the LT17 as a woodworker with a new interest in paddling.  My favorite woodworing finshing sequence was: Danish oil, then shellac, then a rub down with pumice and rottenstone, then wax.  I've always loved the look of natual wood, and to me, that was the best way to bring out depth, figure and shine.  As a new paddler, I now have a boat, a PFD on order, but no paddle.  Maybe my next post will be looking for tips on good paddle plans.   Thanks for the generosity with the information.