I guess I slept through geometry class but does the deck beam need to be cut by the same amount on each end of the arc?
The deck beam has a constant radius, so it does not matter where it is cut. You can trim it from one end or both.
The directions in the manual are good for this step, just make sure that you initially cut it a little too wide. The boat gets wider further aft, so you can get the angles correct behind the final location then gradually remove material and sneak the beam forward incrementally. A Shinto rasp is a good tool for this. I think that Nick Schade’s comment about sneaking up on perfection is fitting.
Mark,
I figured I’d ask before I cut. I learned the “sneaking up” trick from woodworking. I was planning to put it to good use for this step. Thanks again.
Rob
Mark,
I got the deck beam in today but not without resin and wood flour patching. I think I didn’t cut the ends short enough to begin and relied on shaving the ends down to fit. In the process I changed the angles. I filled in any gaps with the resin and wood flour. It ain’t pretty but the screws are in and it seems solid. Not my best. What do I do with the countersunk screw head? Fill in with clear epoxy?
Rob
Once the deck goes on, nobody can see that joint so it does not need to be pretty as long as it is structurally secure. If you are going to finish the hull bright, then fill the countersink with epoxy thickened with wood flour attempting to match the color of the plywood. You can add a bit of Cab-o-sil to lighten the mixture as needed. If painting the hull, fill the countersink with epoxy thickened with micro balloons which will be easier to sand. If you don’t have micro balloons, just add wood flour. Sand flush before glassing the deck.