Is is ok to overlap the 2 chine fiberglass tape strips
Absolutely fine, and probably even better for glass to overlap. You don’t have to go to very tip of boat, but the further the better. If you ever have problems with getting tape to lay into an area like this consider cutting your own piece of tape on a 45 degree bias - biased tape goes around corners and bends into sharp V angles (or over the outside of them, too). It does have a tendeny to create “strings,” but with blue tape and careful fill technique, etc. you can learn to minimize string problems.
I’m not sure what you’re building or what your manual says, but double check - you might be expected to lay in the bow filet and then press the tape into the soft filet, and then put your first fill-coat into the glass, all as one step. Or even if it doesn’t say that, I’m sure it is a good way of making a nice strong joint. Don’t worrty too much, these CLC boats are more than robust enough per their design - I’ver never had any piece fail, other than the time an 8-inch diameter tree limb landed on my NE dory, and even then, everything was repairable.
Jeff,
Thanks. It will be “cool” enough tomorrow to start on the fillets although maybe just the bow. I built the scale model of the NE Dory thinking that that was the boat I wanted to build. Next maybe? Sorry tp hear about the tree limb. Glad it was not totaled.
Rob
There is limited area to work in the bow and stern areas of the Chesapeake. Lay a filet in there as best you can then cover with fiberglass. Ideally, the glass will reach forward/aft to where you will eventually add end pours. Do the centerline first then the chines. As Jeff suggests, the tape can be hard to lay as the bow/stern gets narrow and curves upward. Once you have the centerline done lay the tape on the chines with some overlap onto the centerline.
Don’t worry too much about appearance up in the bow/stern because these areas will never again be seen once the deck goes on. It is easy to add a bunch of weight/epoxy in this area trying to get everything to lay flat. As long as the fiberglass is laying flat against the filets and onto the neighboring plywood, it will be structurally strong even if the edges of the tape are not against the wood.
Picture is bow of my Sport Tandem build.
After end pour.
Mark,
Thanks again. I am starting now. It is raining outside but I assume this will slow the drying process?
Rob
Epoxy cures (chemical reaction), it doesn’t dry (solvent evaporation), so humidity is not a factor with hardening (cure) time, just ambient temperature.
Jeff,
That makes sense. Thanks!
Rob
