I’ve done two coats. First with squeegee, second with roller then tipping off with foam brush. Both turned out decently, but some slightly uneven spots. I think I’m good with just one more, assuming I do it well. I’m using west systems epoxy with fast hardener and temps are low 60s. I’m past green now, so I’ll need to wash the amine blush off with soapy water and scotch brite and dry 1) Any other surface prep I should do?
Then I’m planning on foam roller then tipping like with the last coat. Any tips for getting a more even coat of epoxy on? The thickness makes it a challenge, but I worry about warming the epoxy too much to start. I’m also worried about overworking it with the roller, though I’m not sure how much is too much. Lastly, when is the right timing for tipping? This last coat I came back to each section after 20-25 minutes or so.
And while we’re at it, I’ve seen a few different sanding schedules for after last epoxy and before varnish, so I’ll take input there too!
Looking good but I personally would sand the present coat out with 120 grit paper if you are patient and 80 if you are not before rolling on the next coat. Personally I thinking tipping epoxy is a waste of effort. It is simply too thick IMHO to tip with a foam brush Just use a foam roller and put it on as thinly as possible. Maybe using 207 or slow hardener might be a better option.
Orbital sander or does it need to be by hand? Just trying to get knock down the high spots and ensure everything is even?
With the foam roller I get tiny bubbles galore, and the tipping pops them if nothing else.
Personally I would use an orbital with 120 grit. If you use a white “hot dog” roller you will not get so many bubbles as you do with the yellow west rollers or the CLC gray foam rollers. But tipping does no harm so tip away. If you use a slower hardener or the west special clear (207) the longer pot life will allow you to work slower which also tends to lessen how many bubbles rolling induces.
Recently I have started using the following rollers instead of the white foam hot dog roller. They are more solvent resistant and I have found them very good for rolling epoxy, varnish, and topside paint without shedding.
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Wooster-4-1-2-in-High-Density-Pro-Foam-Cage-Frame-Mini-Roller-Cover-2-Pack-0HR2670044/300902426?MERCH=REC-_-reorder-_-n/a-_-0-_-n/a-_-n/a-_-n/a-_-n/a-_-n/a
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This is after 120. When I tipped, I first went across the beam, then fore and aft, thinking that the second lines (fore/aft) would be more prominent but would at least match the grain. Interesting that you can see the the across lines so well.
There are a couple high spots like these where it looks like I’m hitting glass. I’m guessing that was from excess epoxy on the initial wet out that caused the glass to float up a little? Or maybe slight wrinkles I didn’t notice?
at this point, I might suggest stop sanding, and use a red Scotch Brite pad to rough up all the little depressions and then roll on another coat of epoxy. I would personally not worry about the few spots where you sanded into the glass
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I just did the fill coat on my Little Auk. I used Nick’s method of brushing the epoxy on. Do small areas - length wise strokes, then across, then lengthwise again. Do not drag brush across chines. I was very happy with the result. My work area is probably in the mid to upper sixties so the epoxy was a bit on the thick side, but it covered well. I sanded with a ROS with 120. Nick uses a long board. Did the deck in about an hour and it had just a few small low spots that I filled.
I’ve used various methods and this works the best for me.
