So, I painted my kayak hull with Interlux Brightside, and now I’d like to do a top/repair coat but find that it’s been phased out.
Can Toplac Plus be rolled over Brightside? I assume the usual wet sand with 220–400 would be appropriate. Can Toplac Plus also be thinned with 333 brushing thinner?
It will be interesting to try the new Toplac, in any case.
I just painted my Mill Creek 16.5 with Toplac Plus on the hull. It has a noticeable difference in the amount of VOC’s produced (much less) and kept a wet edge much longer. No need to sand between coats. I put on 4 coats but I wet sanded with 400 grit on the 3rd coat. Turned out great. Very high gloss.
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One more thing that saved me half the time applying it, no need to tip after rolling. I did tip for the first two coats out of habit. The last two coats I tried no tipping and turned out as good or better than tipping in half the time and effort.
Good to know that it truly doesn’t need to be sanded between coats–and as advertised, no tipping and rolling! Appreciate the real-world feedback. Lower VOCs always a plus, too.
Recommend that you call the Interlux Technical Support line. They will give you the most accurate answer.
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Interlux assured me that Toplac over Brightside would be OK with sanding, so wet sand I did, and was pleased to find that, as advertised, Toplac does not need tipping, but rolls on quite nicely and self-levels without tipping. I’m pleased with the results so far.
I am preparing to paint my hull. I have the Brightside Polyurethane. When you first applied the Brightside did you use the Pre-Kote Primer underneath it? Thanks!
I did use the Pre-kote, but pay careful attention to the humidity levels and incoming rainstorms of you decide to use it—it likes to soak up moisture and so I definitely ended up staying up sanding it and then rolling on the first coat of paint til 1 am one night, since a storm was on the way and I didn’t want t to mess up the paint job with humidity-soaked primer.
Took a lot of sanding to take off all but the low spots, but while that stuff is messy and dusty, it is much easier to sand than epoxy.
If I had to do it again, though, I’d use fairing compound before the Pre-Kote primer; a few spots were too deep to fill. Still, the boat turned out pretty great and is a blast to paddle.
Looks great! Thanks for the advice. I think I will move to the Toplac now and avoid the problem with finding the Brightside.
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What color green that?
Thanks!
I believe you’re referring to my boat. I used Interlux Toplac Plus without primer over sanded epoxy. 220 grit then 400 wet sand on the 3rd coat, 4 coats total. The color is Donegal Green.
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@Doug_Finlayson
Did you have any problems with the Toplac Plus adhering to the sanded epoxy? I am hoping to skip that step as well, and have heard different opinions about using the primer.
I used three different types of paint on my Mill Creek 16.5. Pettit, Interlux Brightside and Interlux Toplac Plus. Most people on the Forum recommended skipping the primer. I called CLC and was told to use the primer, I did on the interior. If you take care and fill the weave and sand the epoxy to a fine 220 grit finish the primer is a waste of time and energy. I probably ended up sanding 95% of the primer off. If there are any fine swirl marks just use the glazing putty to fill them in.
I used Toplac Plus on the bare epoxy on the hull without any issues. I rolled and tipped the first couple of coats out of habit then went to roll only. Much faster that way about half the time and no problem keeping a wet edge at 80+ degrees. No problem with any peeling or flaking so far.
Thanks @Doug_Finlayson ,
That helps.
@Doug_Finlayson
What about thinner. Did you thin the paint, and if so, how much?
Thanks,
If you are brushing or rolling the paint on there should be no need to add thinner. In my opinion the less VOC’s the better.