1) We are at the stage of our build where we can install a handle. When I look at the plans and the handle suggested, it seems like the handle mounting points present a vulnerability in the board. As the boards we are building will be used every day, would you advise NOT installing the handle, or fitting a different style of handle OR am I just plain wrong in my assessment of this as a vulnerability ?
There are many folk out there who used their boards a lot, so what is the advice for the long term use of handle / no handle / different style to the one in the plans ?
NOTE, we have a team available for loading boards on and off transport
2) Due to the fact that we often transport 10 - 60 boards at a time on vehicles (really), we want to go with a single fin box glassed into the back end so that we can slide in a removeable 9 inch fin. Any advice on this is welcomed - thank you in advance :-)
I just read the article on doing things different than recommended on the Gray-Whale-Paddle site (https://graywhalepaddle.net/building-a-paddleboard/) which recommends a longer handle, to grant a better balance while carrying.
It makes sense to me, so I think I go for it (I'm in the stage of placing the supports).
I'm not sure which kind of material I'll find. Instead of the tubular webbing, I was thinking it would work with a piece 1.5" firehose.
Any thoughts or experiences on that?
I built a Hybrid 12.5' for my wife four years ago. It has held up well but has only seen moderate use.
1. The handle location is good. It is centered between the paddler's feet so it is not in the way and allows a person to carry the board solo under arm. Without a handle there, it would be difficult to carry the board solo. For heavy use, you may consider a different handle than the one that comes with the kit. I have that handle on a couple of older, heavily used kayaks and over time the webbing on each end starts to wear. Maybe something rigid may be better, but that might create a hazard for a paddler that falls down on the board.
2. You may want to consider bow/stern handles or some other kind of bow/stern tie down depending upon how you load and transport the boards. I added an eyelet on the bow so I could attache a tow line and a leash attach point on the stern.
3. Upon advice from some paddleboard racers I omitted the two small fins and went with a single fin box. The kit that CLC sells makes it easy but you need to do this early in the build process because you have to modify one of the frames to install it. We started with a 9" fin but it makes the board VERY hard to turn. 5-6" fin is perfect for beginners in flat conditions.
4. For heavy useage, I would add an extra layer of glass on the deck. There have been instances of people falling and cracking the deck with elbows/knees.
