By any chance do you have the dimensions and/or maybe a few more pictures/details of the jib sail you installed. I’m very interested in incorporating this into my build. Sounds like this solves a few issues from the start.
First, I’ll ask if you are sure you want to go with a gaff-rigged sloop set-up (and also if you want to make sure it remains convertible to the lug rig, too)? If you haven’t already purchased your sailing kit you might decide you’d rather just buy/build your NE Dory as a sloop rig, especially if your main concern is simply improving upwind performance. The standard sloop rig should perform as well to windward as my gaff-rigged sloop (or maybe better - I haven’t ever sailed one).
Having three halyards (jib halyard plus mainsail throat and peak halyards (one for the mainsail luff and one for the gaff spar)), plus forestay (maybe), shrouds, downhaul or cunnigham and/or boom vang means the convertible the gaff-rig sloop option is the most complicated (and therefore will take the longest time (but not really much longer) ro rig at the dock and will be the most expensive to build due to extra line, blocks and other hardware bits.
I ask, because putting things together like mine as a convertible gaff-rig sloop (with jib) and standard lug rig (no jib) gets a little complicated. Nothing hard, just a bit harder than deciding you want to rig it as gaff-rigged sloop (only) or lug rig (only). And obviously more complicated than doing the stock sloop rig (only). If you decide you’d like to do gaff rigged sloop (only) you could obviously use the standard lug rig spars and lug sail as a starting point like I did, or you might ask a sailmaker (or John Harris) to give separate/unique recommendations for spar lengths and/or sail measurements. For instance, if you built a non-convertible gaff rigged sloop you’d be sure to want jaws built in on the front of the gaff, and the stock lug mast is probably a little bit short for setting up the stock lug sail as a gaff-rigged sail (but obviously I made it work). All things to consider.
In order of simplicity to build, rig and sail, I’d say it is:
Balanced Lug Rig (only)
Sloop Rig (only)
Gaff Rigged Sloop (only)
Combo/Convertible Gaff Rigged Sloop / Balanced Lug Rig
In order of windward performance I’d guess it is:
Sloop Rig
Gaff Rigged Sloop
Balanced Lug Rig
As to overall speed, when anything other than close hauled, the gaff rigged sloop is probably fastest of all, as the sail area is greatest. And because the gaff rigged sloop is at least “pretty good” going to windward, the overall “get there and get home” speed is probably fastest in the gaff rigged sloop.
Note that making the rudder modification (decreasing the hinge-angle) is perhaps at least as important as making the sail modification with respect to overall boat performance.
As for a recommendation, if I was doing things from a fresh start I’d probably build a gaff-rigged sloop (non-convertible) because it looks cool and sails well, and once you have the gaff-rigged option available you’ll probably never sail as a lug rig anyway - I never do that anymore. I’d probably use a CLC stock lug mainsail (so it could be purchased off the shelf) and use the stock CLC sloop jib (for the same reason) - all assuming I didn’t have old sails laying around to re-cut for the build. Assuming use of the CLC lug sail for the main, I’d make the mast about 2 feet taller than the standard lug mast (making the purchase-angle for the peak halyard better than the shorter mast- maybe determining actual mast height based on the stock jib luff measurement; it has to be tall enough to accomodate whatever jib luff length you use. CLC could easily sell you wood for the longer mast. I’d make the mast stand straight up and use the stock lug-rig mast partner. That might be a bit weird, but seems stronger than having a stayed-only mast (like the sloop rig), and makes rigging easy because the mast will stand on its own while you rig the shrouds, and means you don’t need a forestay, just a strong jib luff (bolt-rope or wire - which might need to be added to the stock sloop jib). I’d put jaws on the gaff spar. I think I’d put a fixed gooseneck on the boom-to-mast joint to keep things from getting too complicated (no sliding track for the gooseneck and no downhaul or cunningham required), just rely on halyard tension and boom vang for mainsail trim. And I wouldn’t permanently install the jib lead blocks until you have the boat out sailing. Their positioning is rather critical and you won’t know what works best until you test things out on the water.
All this said, if you don’t opt for the standard sloop rig and you’d like to copy what I did for the convertible lug rig/gaff-rigged sloop set up I’ll be happy to send you some measurements and pictures and hints.
Someone replied to your post.
| Edward_Steinbacher
May 22 |
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By any chance do you have the dimensions and/or maybe a few more pictures/details of the jib sail you installed. I’m very interested in incorporating this into my build. Sounds like this solves a few issues from the start.
I have a Peep Hen ( in addition to a Lighthouse Peapod) I was having trouble tacking in it and the advice I got was to remain on the lee side until you are through the tack. The other thing I noticed is that with the rudder (from ruddercraft) out flat, I could also kind of skull a bit. Not sure whether this translates for your application, or whether even making tacks is part of the problem. But not to be consdescending, part pf the joy of sailing is the learning. Have fun.