Bob, I have been there... your approaching this build the same way I did.
I think your approach is good,, you will find some builders will vary the steps for different reasons.
I will outline my procedures for you. For me, I have limited space in my garage and in Florida humidity is a big problem with wood. Also, I tried to follows Nick's book, video, and my kit notes.
1. If you have taken your hull off the forms double check and make sure the forms are fully seated down into the hull... ie touching bottom and sides, and bow and stern...
2. As noted before use hot glue to get side of hull up against the forms/stations. I usually plane and sand down the hull from 60 to 80 grit. I do my finally sanding to 120 grit right before I fiberglass the hull or deck. ( you will be taking the deck and hull off the forms and will have some marks and minor scratches.)
3) Now, go forward and complete stripping the deck, cutout the cockpit recess, if you have one, and then glue up the horizontal cockpit recess strips, and sand, of course... we are always sanding...
4) I first take the deck off and sit on supported horses .
5) Overall, I fiberglass the outside hull first and then the next day the outside deck. If cannot get back to fiberglass the insides on the third and fourth day, I place the deck back on the hull/forms, and use cloth straps to make sure the best I can, that the deck and hull are touching together especially at the bow rise area. Also, remember your hull is still hot glued. It takes multiple days for fiberglass/epoxy to cure, so if you go away for while you need to make sure the hull and deck are close conforming to the stations/forms. When the fiberglass on the hull sets up you will find the those gaps had probably went away.
When fiberglassing the outside of the deck you can go one of two ways.
a) First, you can remove the hull from the forms and place them on a support horses. Now I insert my spreader bars/spacers that are marked. Then I fiberglass the deck on the stations without the hull. The advantages are the fiberglass seems to hang better off the sides and of course you don't need to tape the hull or deal with drips and runs.
b) Second method,, leave the hull and deck on the forms. Tape off the hull and go ahead an fibeglass the deck. Obvious advantage is you do not have to deal with the spreader bars/spacers. Its your choice here!
6) Next the inside hull. I leave the deck on the forms/stations, and place the hull on the supported horses. (I actually bought some kayak foam blocks. They work great.) I next sand the interior and get it prep for fiberglass. I complete the fiberglassing on the inside hull. Again, if I leave the hull off the forms/stations, I insert the spreader bars/spacers.
7) Again, put the hull back on the forms/stations. On the supported horses I sand and fiberglass the inside of the deck.
I found after fiberglassing the outsides, the hull and deck wants to curl inward like a leaf, so be meticulous with placing and keeping the hull and deck on the forms or use the spreader bars/spacers on the hull everytime your remove the hull from the forms/stations. The best solution is to fiberglass for four consecutive days for the outside hull/deck and the insideof the hull/deck.
If your deck has a lot of curvation at the sheerline you can place the spreaders bars on the deck too, for example the Guillemot deck. If you have a flatter deck or an acute angle at the sheerline, like the Petrel, you will not be able to insert the spreader bars/spacer. Of course you will have less curling compared to the hull.
Your kit should have a roll of fiberglass tape. You put the hull and deck together after you build the cockpit lip, put in pegs etc.. See Nick's books and video....
good luck... K.Greer