On Laszlo's page he shows a loop handle on his kayak. I would like to make one like it. Does anyone have a name for this technique (so I can research it) or a YouTube vide I can watch. Laszlo's can you give description of how you did it? And don't assume I'm smart or handy. I am neither
Apologize if this question has already been asked but I couldn't find any answers. How do you make sure that the hole for the carry handle is perfectly straight on entry and exit of the bow. Given that it must be drilled twice - once larger than needed and once after filling with epoxy, it would seem there's high probability of it not being straight.
Is this done by eye or is there some type of jig that people use to ensure a straight hole?
in creating the grab loop hole i will start with a relatively small bit and work my way up to 3/4. this gives a lot of control and the ability to make adjustments to ensure you have it right.
i will also only go a little over half way through each side and then drill through from the other side to prevent break out/splintering.
this helps keep it straight and controlled.
with respect to the drill, i have one that has a level on it that helps me maintain alignment in the up/down plain and i focus on the fore/aft plane by sight.
i will repeat the process after filling and re-drilling. so my objective is a half inch diamter hole with a 1/8 ring around it (which is why the original hole is 3/4 inch.
Nice thread reanimation! I actually splice all day for a living. One thing to keep in mind with the back splice on three strand is that tapering each end gives it a much more finished look than having all three tails exit after the same number of tucks. I will be posting how-to vidoes on all my splices here in the next several months as soon as the season is over.
For example, my Eastport Pram has a Dyneema cored double braid (MLX) halyard that is tapered so its skinny on the shackle end, double that down by the cleat for grabbing power and no stretch for those long, lazy afternoons on Green Lake.
With respect to drilling holes in the boat, there are two ways: before the boat is stitched together, it's easy to do on the bench. Afterwards, not so much. I bought one of those cheap drill guides that attaches to your drill. Set it at 90°, clamp it in place and you can drill anyhole perpendicular to the surface. I had to do this to install my gudgeons and pintles:
I don't have one for the back splice, which is surprisingly difficult to do without the strands of either end just unraveling, so if there's any interest, I can try to put something up. I'm currently working on a new YouTube channel with all of these splices covered.
>>Is this done by eye or is there some type of jig that people use to ensure a straight hole?
I did mine (the one pictured way up at the beginning of the thread) by eye in one shot, drilled directly to the final size. I smoothed it with some sandpaper and gave it 3 coats of epoxy. Haven't had to do anything else to it in 7 years.
Howard's technique is much safer, but I was feeling confident since I'd had a lot of practice (over 20 years) with that particular power drill. Newbies should do it Howard's way.
I have seen bow and stern handles (toggles) tied from a piece of rope. They look like a larger loop wrapped with a series of small loops on top that resemble a hangmans' noose. The CLC site shows a double fishermans' knot for this purpose but it isn't the look I want and it doesn't seem like the correct knot for the purpose. I couldn't even tie one with a single length of rope. could be user error. Can anyone tell me what it's called and where I could find some instructions?
Aiken: What you're referring to may be just a multiple overhand knot with multiple tucks.
Use this method with a larger loop and a longer tail for more tucks:
http://www.animatedknots.com/doubleoverhand/
Also, I forgot to mention that if you use the 3 strand back splice, the handle will end up being twice as thick as the original rope, so Laszlo's 1/2 makes a comfortable 1" handle.
It's a short splice. A back splice wouldn't actually join the ends, it just finishes an end so it can't unravel. I guess if you want to be really picky (and incur the Annoyance of John for excessive pedantism) you should call it a long short splice. It's not tapered like a true long splice because you actually want the extra fatness of the rope, but it's much longer than a true short splice.
The one on my WD12 is still going strong after 6 years.
Like wooden boat building rope work is being seen as less important of a craft. But there is still a very praticle side and beauty to rope craft, boat building and woodworking in all areas.