Hi Everyone,
I'm building a Skerry from plans and I have a short question regarding the skeg.
Does the trailing edge of the skeg need to be rounded off, in the same way the daggerboard and rudder edges are? Would it make a difference?
Any input would be much appreciated.
Thanks!
Jean.
http://picasaweb.google.com/pbjsndwch/BuildingTheSkerry#
Not necessary. However if you did round it off a bit you might pick up 0.003 knots in performance. (And for those of you who wondered where I came up with that number, I am a rocket scientist.)
George K
Wouldn't that minor "performance enhancement" by rounding off the skeg only be effectively present when rowing, given that the trailing edge of the skeg is directly forward of (and very close to and in line with) the leading edge of the rudder?
So-- I agree with George K. rounding it off isn't necessary...
Julie K.
Yeah, but it will make it LOOK faster! ;-)
Seriously, a small advantage is that you'll be somewhat less likely to chip the trailing edge of the skeg. And if you glass over that part of the skeg (I haven't seen the plans, but I'm guessing you do) you'll find it much easier to do if the edges are rounded, than if they're square.
The manual does not call for the skeg to get glassed. Another thing to keep in mind is that rounding it over may make it significantly more challenging to attach the lower gudgeon.
Julie K
Here's a link to my skerry skeg and rudder
http://picasaweb.google.com/jkanarr/BuildingSanctuary#5308628739447701842
GeorgeK, thought you were a chemist.
Julie K, very nice work.
George & Julie - you two are both K's and both do nice boats. You related by any chance?
Laszlo
Beautiful boat, Julie! Your paint and brightwork came out fantastic!
By the way, are those a couple of Pygmy's on the wall?
~Chris
I plan on leaving mine flat to assist with the under vehicle lighting ;<)
Jim C,
Painting a red racing stripe is much more effective if you're wanting to make your boat look faster. People can't see the bottom.
Laszlo,
1. I play chemist at work analyzing fuels and oxidizers used on rockets, therefore, by extension, I'm a rocket scientist. 2. As far as I know Julie K and I aren't related. I have accounted for all my children and am still on the first wife.
Jshaley,
Can't wait to see your boat!
George K
Hi Everyone,
Thanks for everyone's input! Julie K's comment about the gudgeons was a good one, and so was George's calculations for performance. I believe I will leave the skeg as is.
BTW, that's a beautiful boat Julie K. Congratulations!
Under vehicle lights? lol. I think I've actually seen underwater LED lights for boats. They'd be great for night diving...
Question #2: what kind of varnish do you recommend for the Skerry (inside and rails). At the local Home Depot, I found some for marine use (Behr). It comes in "satin" or "high-gloss". Any recommendations? Does it make the wood appear darker?
Thanks again for all your input.
Jean.
The stuff sold at the big box stores isn't much good for the boats we build. I use Epiphanes High Gloss for all my boats. The only exception I made was using their satin finish on the inside of my NE Dory. The seats and rails are high gloss, however. CLC sells Z-Spar Captains, Interlux Schooner and Goldspar (satin) varnishes which are also an excellent products. All of these have the uv inhibitors needed to protect the epoxies we use. The exceptions are the satin flavors made by both companies. You have to use the gloss finishes first to get the uv protection and put the satin over it.
Looking forward to seeing the finished boat.
George K
Thanks folks, for the compliments on my skerry....of course, Sanctuary doesn't look quite as nice now as it did when it was first launched back in 2007. It, is, after all, a boat, not a coffee table.... (Hmmm...now I'm thinking of building one of those cute little Eastport Pram coffee tables.....). I built my first kayak in 1999.
and yes, if you found your way through the link posted above to the rest of my web album, those are a pair of pygmys on the wall....... in addition to the skerry, I've built three pygmys (2 cohos and a tern) plus a wood duck 12 for a friend (in addition to helping another friend build theirs, which turned into my building while she helped.....) and I have a half-built duck under construction from plans (languishing) in my garage that I plan to get back to this spring..... hopefully after easter.
re: varnish. I second what George K (who has NOT come to any of our annual family camping gatherings with his fleet...which means that he either is not related to me, or....he is in big trouble!) said. Not all varnish is created equal. I've used both Captains and Schooner varnishes, and like them both. The satin does not have UV inhibitors, so one needs to do several coats of gloss, then put the satin on top of it. I used Schooner on the skerry -- the rails are gloss, and the interior is satin -- other wise, on those days when its not overcast, and that big yellow thing in the sky is shining, the reflected glare would hurt my eyes. (I'm from the pacific northwest, so blinding glare is a less frequent problem for me than for someone who lives where the sun does shine more, but I'd still recommend a satin finish for the interior....or good sunglasses).
The hull of Sanctuary is finished with Interlux Brightsides hatteras off-white, over the interlux hi-build primer. I had no trouble with that, but a friend of mine who tried that combo had all sorts of frustrating trouble with the paint bubbling up that we finally traced to humidity issues -- he waited too long between applying the primer and the paint, and it was a typical cold damp spring when he did it.... and the talc in the hi-build primer absorbed moisture from the air.... (I, fortunately, had been painting during a dry spell, and was hustling to get the finish work done before the Big Launch Party, so I was sanding & doing the next coat as soon as the previous coat was dry.....
good luck with your skerry, Jean -- I paged through your web album --it's looking nice.... and, as far as using stuff from the big box stores, sometimes that falls under the category of being "penny wise and pound foolish." A high quality marine varnish is worth every penny .... for one thing, it will last longer before you need to revarnish.... (and THAT, at least to me, is worth it...)
Julie K.
Thanks for your comments Julie K. What you said about priming and painting makes a lot of sense and I will keep that in mind when it comes to paint. I also was thinking of a Hatteras off-white colour, so I think I'll take another look at your album.
(Coincidentally, did I see one of your photos (from the album) in a CLC advertisement? I think it was in either WoodenBoat magazine or Small Boats You Can Build or Buy? I pour over those religiously... Congrats! It's great recognition.)
I will probably purchase one of the CLC varnishes George K mentioned. Nothing better than a personal recomendation! I hope they ship to Canada...
I plan on painting the exterior and interior bottom panel and garboard. The local marine store carries Interlux Brightsides. Julie K (or anyone): How does this paint stand up to wear and tear? It doesn't have to be perfect, just protect what's underneath.
Thanks all for sharing your experience.
Jean.
If CLC can't ship varnish to Canada (or if it is exhorbitantly expensive to ship to Canada), you should be able to buy it at your local marine store. Schooner is an Interlux product...., and Captains is made by Z-Spar. So if they carry the paint, they should carry the varnish.... it's pretty standard stuff.
The paint holds up pretty well. The boat still turns heads even after three seasons of riding around on the trailer and landing on beaches, etc..... Doesn't need repainting yet... which might just mean that the scratches are on the bottom where they don't show......
and yep, one of the pictures on my web album made the CLC ad collection.
Julie K.