Hi, I’m preparing for my second sea trials and coming to it with some trepidation as I only have one reef on the main as part of the std kit. Im getting steady 12kts here in my sailing area withs gusts to 20. I’m a novice with dinghies and would rather start with less canvas and avoid being over powered. Any advice most welcome. Thanks, Ed
First, I’d try to get a crew member along to help out. If the boat is new to you and you are new to this sailing, have someone to handle a sheet and hike a bit while you concentrate on handling the boat.
Second, absolutely, tie in the reef before you start. I have a skerry, not a SWD, but I’ve found that the lug main is much easier to handle w/ a reef once you get past light breeze. And keep the mizzen up unless it’s really honking to keep the helm more balanced. The lug main develops a lot of weather helm on the skerry off the wind if you don’t reef. Also, I’ve taken to restraining the upper spar with a loop of line tied loosely around the spar and mast. I need to get a parrel bead setup to control it, but this works, and keeps the spar from blowing off to leeward of the mast when I’m on the starboard tack (spar is on port side of the mast).
And the lug needs a stout downhaul to tighten the luff of the sail. I got an extra pair of small blocks and made a 3 part tackle rather than the stock single downhaul line to get the tension right. With modern rope construction the downhaul doesn’t have to be that large in diameter. 5/16” dia. double braid is all you need and if you use a higher performance line, 1/4” is enough, but I think you do need the blocks to get mechanical advantage.
And, trust the boat. The skerry can be a bit tippy at first and the SWD probably is too, but it stiffens and is very hard to put the gunwale in the water. That initial heel happens quickly so can disturb a new person, but it’s good. And with a crewman along, you have some movable ballast handy. I have not yet dumped the skerry (came close) and that includes some crash jibes in breezes like you’ve described in the middle of the Chesapeake Bay or even Long Island Sound. The SWD is even steadier. Still, wear that PFD!
The need to reef is a combination of the boat’s capabilities, the current conditions and the skill and experience of the sailor. Because of that, there’s no one prescription like “at 10 knots you should reef reef your SW Dory”. The answer to “when to reef” is anytime the sailor feels uncomfortable with the amount of sail they have up.
So going by the rule-of-thumb above, it’s time to reef. Remember, it’s your boat and your decision. You’re the one at risk and it’s your responsibility. No one else gets to criticize you for being prudent and thinking ahead. If anyone thinks less of you for taking things in easy stages while learning, their opinion is worthless.
Laszlo
Robert posted while I was sloooowly typing. All excellent advice.
Laszlo
Thank you both for your very useful info and sound advice. I should explain that while I am very new to dinghy sailing, I have been sailing on a cruising sloop for over 12 years. No, I didn’t come to sailing the traditional route starting with dinghies as most do but decided to take up sailing when I came close to retiring from full time work. I am now 74 yo and have been sailing solo for the last 5 years and loving it. Yes, I have recently completed building the CLC SW Dory and have so far done one short sea trial at the end of 2024. This initial sea trial resulted in further modifications to the Norwegian tiller arrangement which I have abandoned and installed a conventional tiller fore of the mizzen mast. I have also retrofitted the engine well per CLC design using the kit provided. I am planning to launch this Sunday and carrying 120L of water as ballast, domestic and drinking water. My intention is to use this boat as a cruising boat, not as a day sailer. Sea water will be used to replace fresh water as necessary to maintain stability and critical mass esp for choppy conditions. I am hoping that other SW Dory owners on this forum can share with me some specific handling characteristics of the SW Dory. Robert, your experience with the secondary stability of the skerry is assuring. Laslo, thanks for the reminder that when to reef is a subjective thing based on many variables. I plan to start with one reef which is all I have. John Harris at CLC has given me the measurements for adding a second reef which I plan to add as soon as possible. Best regards, Ed
“If Can, can. If Cannot, cannot”
@Edward_Lee I hope you will post here or somewhere about sailing the Southwester Dory, especially if you have some longer adventures. I have built one myself, although it will not launch until the weather warms up and I finish painting. There isn’t a lot of info on the internet about the Southwester compared to some other boats. I hope to document the adventures I plan to have after I’ve spent some time learning about my boat.
Good morning Aaron n other SW Dory owners. I like to share with you all my second sea trials following some important modifications that I have made since the first sea trials in Nov 24. Following from this first sea trials, I have 1) modified the Norwegian tiller to a more conventional one and it has worked a treat. If any of you have struggled with the Norwegian tiller, you may like to have a closer look at what I have done. I will post pics after this. 2) decided to retrofit the engine well and installed a Mercury 3.3hp. Very glad I did this and very happy with the design, ease of access from the cockpit and the balance. The downside is that it takes up a lot of the valuable cockpit space. From a safety POV I am very glad I have made this decision after some harrowing n physically challenging sea and wind conditions from my first sea trial. I prefer to sail n row if I can but have found situations where an engine is not a luxury, but a life saver. 3) my main halyard and downhaul are now led to the cockpit. Another safety feature and it has worked well. 4) added a mini cuddy which can be used for wind n rain protection in an emergency when setting up the tent is not possible. It also serves as a very handy store for things that needs to be kept out of the weather and within reach in a hurry.
For this second sea trial I have carried fresh water ballast of 120L in 10L bags and it has improved the stability significantly. I estimate that the total weight is close to if not exceeding its designed payload at this stage. Unfortunately I have just had to abort my sea trials as I am unable to lower my dagger board due to suspected swelling from hitting bottom 12 days ago. I am now seeking advice from John Harris on repairs n possible replacement using solid hardwood. More to come. Cheers, Ed in Langkawi, Malaysia
“If Can, can. If Cannot, cannot”
Good morning Aaron n other SW Dory owners. I like to share with you all my second sea trials following some important modifications that I have made since the first sea trials in Nov 24. Following from this first sea trials, I have 1) modified the Norwegian tiller to a more conventional one and it has worked a treat. If any of you have struggled with the Norwegian tiller, you may like to have a closer look at what I have done. I will post pics after this. 2) decided to retrofit the engine well and installed a Mercury 3.3hp. Very glad I did this and very happy with the design, ease of access from the cockpit and the balance. The downside is that it takes up a lot of the valuable cockpit space. From a safety POV I am very glad I have made this decision after some harrowing n physically challenging sea and wind conditions from my first sea trial. I prefer to sail n row if I can but have found situations where an engine is not a luxury, but a life saver. 3) my main halyard and downhaul are now led to the cockpit. Another safety feature and it has worked well. 4) added a mini cuddy which can be used for wind n rain protection in an emergency when setting up the tent is not possible. It also serves as a very handy store for things that needs to be kept out of the weather and within reach in a hurry.
For this second sea trial I have carried fresh water ballast of 120L in 10L bags and it has improved the stability significantly. I estimate that the total weight is close to if not exceeding its designed payload at this stage. Unfortunately I have just had to abort my sea trials as I am unable to lower my dagger board due to suspected swelling from hitting bottom 12 days ago. I am now seeking advice from John Harris on repairs n possible replacement using solid hardwood. More to come. Cheers, Ed in Langkawi, Malaysia
