After putting my final layer of varnish onto my Kaholo 14, I noticed a few small strips of exposed wood (fir and the edge of the okoume marine ply) along the stringer/chine on one side (about 1/4" wide x 4" and 2" long). I'm going to brush a thin (I hope) layer of epoxy with medium hardener over these spots. I'm hoping I can let it cure for a few hours and then (tomorrow) hit it with a heat gun for 20 minutes, roughen it up with maroon Scotch Brite, and paint with EZ-Poxy (I've sanded everything else to 220). True, or do I need to wait a week or so for the epoxy to cure? I'm pretty impatient at this point because the decent weather is almost over here in the PNW and I'd somehow managed to miss this until now. I'm planning to put paint directly onto the epoxy (with the performance enhancer and probably with some of Pettit's proprietary thinner), though there is some varnish creeping over the deck edge in places.
Evidently I sanded through two layers of fiberglass in those spots, by the way. I'm kind of shocked that this happened given that I sanded by hand, but it's hard to argue with bare wood!
By the way, I'm varnishing the flat part of the deck and painting the "hull" (including the spots where I sanded too deeply on the chines/sheer clamps and just barely onto the side panel). Given the very limited extent of the epoxy "patching," I think I'll proceed with painting tomorrow unless someone recommends otherwise. I'll be away for the 3-day weekend and really don't want to lose those days (since I need to let the paint dry for a week or so before I use the board).
Now...to figure out how to cut my deck pads (I thought I'd be "creative" and cut my own from Seadek rectangles of colors of my own choosing - regretting that obligation right about now). I'll probably create an MDF template by tracing the deck contour onto a sheet and then use a flush trim router bit (which I used with success to cut the fin box fin slot) to cut the pad. I'll be pleasantly surprised if it doesn't end in catastrophe. I'm going to cut two more so a kiddo-sized human can ride on the back (or so I can install a rowing rig).
once the epoxy cures per the prescribed temperature range, you can overpaint. just confirm it is cured/hard....it should have no tackiness or ability to indent with a fingernail. i see no reason for the described 20 minute heat gun treatment. that will only soften the epoxy.
do your short scotch brite rough up...then wipe it down with clean water or denatured alcohol and let dry...then move to the paint after that.
while it is generally something that you give a couple days, in a pinch you can do it...and i have done it in repair scenarios similar to what you describe.
the paint will tell you within 10 to 15 minutes of application if there is a problem (e.g., it will crackle or fisheye) if there is contamination or some other incompatible chemical interaction. keep your paint layers thin so that it will dry quickly and that minimized problems.
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Thanks. I realized before leaving for the long weekend that one day wouldn't be enough for painting anyway given that I'll probably need 2-3 coats, but the fingernail test and knowing that I'll know shortly after painting whether the epoxy is sufficiently cured will give me peace of mind as I paint this week.