https://photos.app.goo.gl/bS6UsnJoCSzfSKXLAHi,
I poured about 3oz 90ml thickened epoxy to both end. Then many tiny white spots appear on the deck. Is this common? It seems I need to sand them out and apply epoxy to fix it
btw the end pour is about 6" from the stern tip and 7" from the bow tip Is 3oz end pour enough?
You might like to hear you're not alone, I had the exact same thing happen. I even wrote about it on the forum.
**************John and CLC if you are listening, maybe put a warning in the next rev of any build manuals...**********
What happened is that the large mass of epoxy "cooked off" hot enough to press any gasses in the wood out into the glass fibers. Less than completely thorough wet-out of the glass might be a factor, but maybe even then perfect glassing can't stand up to this treatment. I did my end-pour with the kayak standing on end, leaning on a tree branch on a hot Texas day. The only good news is that when I noticed how hot the first end got, and that the speckles appeared, I stood the other end into a bucket of water prior to doing the end pour, and swished the water around and added more cool water even as the epoxy cured.
Fix your speckles if you wish, but they don't look very bad, and no one will notice them from more than a couple of feet away. I think the only fix will be to completely grind the area back down to wood - I never found a way to partially sand into the tops and then get thinned epoxy into the fibers to make them again transparent. And unless you put a lot of effort into the fix, it will probably be more noticeable than the speckles.
I now consider my speckles a feature, not a fault - the look kind of cool when they catch the sun glinting off them just right.
agree with bubblehead....partially.
the part i agree is there should be a big warning on endpours and potential heat build up. i think, frankly, it should be changed to use blocks like i do and other experienced builders do:
i also agree, that it will not be overly noticable and you could consider leaving it as is.
where i have a bit of a difference is that i think you could fix it relatively easily (am speaking as somebody who has done a lot of repair). to address this you would take 80 or 100 grit paper and sand it back to the sapelle (carefully) and reglass and fair it in. 24 hours for the complete the operation. sand it, reglass it (one to two hours), wait a day, fair it in (30 minutes).
anyway, during the course of owning the boat, you will get a chance to develop repair skills. i recall letting a friend borrow my shearwater who proceeded to paddle it into a dock where the pointy bow got stuck and then was broken off as the boat was swung by the wind. while i cringed inside, i just calmly said, please don't worry.... and had it totally fixed in 48 hours.
this is a picture of my shearwater - these are very nice boats:
on you final question about end pour size, you need no more epoxy than what is necessary to ensure that if you drilled a hole for the toggles, that it would go through the end pour.
so if you are not dilling holes for toggles, you can stop with any further end pour work. if you drill your holes for toggles and it goes through the end pour, you are done. if you drill your hole and it opens up into the hull, then you will have to temporarily cover your hole with packing tape and pour some more epoxy in until you cover the hole.
hope that helps.
h
Thank you guys for the helpful comments
h, your shearwater looks very nice. Do you have a higher resolution picture to show the deck riggings and perimeter lines? I just want to get the idea where to drill the screw holes on the deck and how to use the toggle holes for adding the perimeter lines
btw I'm building a sectional shearwater 17 and still haven't had a clear idea how to add perimeter lines for three separate sections
Chi
Hi Chi,
if you right click on the picture you can try 'open in new tab' and should be able to enlarge it.
i can see the perimeter line and locations pretty well. is there a particular detail you are looking for? the boat is built pretty stock (per plans). but if there is an area of detail, i might have a different picture i can find.
i am very curious about your project to build a sectional shearwater 17. can you share a bit more about the project?. for perimeter lines, you will need to line stuff up along the cuts to make it convenient....so there will likely be some customizing of the rigging plan in order to accomodate the sections.
i am sure you can make it look nice. i am curious about the structural approach you will take to connect the sections to one another. from a plans perspective, i am only aware of the shearwater sport in a 'sectional' configuration.
h
how
Hi h,
I tried zoom in to your picture but it's still blurry. What I want to know are
1. How do you connect the perimeter lines with the toggle cords?
2. What are the dimension and position for the two riggings near the cockpit? I know there is no strict answerbut just want to make sure I don't do anything uncommon or unusual.
3. I can't see clearly the rigging near the stern tip in your pic. Is this also for holding backup paddle?
The design is similar to SWS. After purchasing a SW17 kit, I somehow came to the following blog showing that a SW17 can be made to become sectional.
http://www.arwenmarine.com/NewsSHAE5.html
I emailed CLC and asked if I could do the same. They said yes. All I need is a custom sectional kit which just includes SWS manual (emailed), 6 plain pre-cut bulkheads, screws/nuts and fg cloths. I also need to some little woodworking work on my side e.g. drill ten screw holes, make doublers
https://photos.app.goo.gl/FebFHX3FTTYSVSPo9
chi
chi,
thanks for sharing those links. it looks like a great project.
there are a lot of designs for rigging. that said, as i mentioned before, you will need some adapaptation for a sectional if you want to make it easy and convenient. your challenge will be limited to the use of perimeter lines....and that is something where i think you have a lot of choice on how to handle it.
below is a picture of my standard rigging which i use on a lot of the boats i have built:
i have shown some of the key measurements that i go with on the bungees immediately in front of and behind the cockpit. these can all be adjusted to suit your needs. sometimes in front i will add another row and shorten up the spacing a bit. i will typically put another bungee set in front of the forward hatch and behind the rear hatch. the spacing on the rear will typically accomodate half a paddle. (so that is where i will carry a spare) that is harder to do on the foredeck on longer boats....so you have to think it through.
i am a fan of perimeter lines and place them through the same deck fittings as the bungees around the perimeter. in the bow and stern, i run my perimeter line through the same hole as the toggle hole. this is challenging on a sectional as it would cross sections. you could adapt perimeter lines to just be on the end sections or leave them off entirely. for me, the main reason i have them is safety. these boats, if you haveto exit them are slick and hard to grab if you do not have a line. but many people who do not go out in challenging conditions have boats without perimeter lines.
the other thing i do is use a bit of bungee tied to my toggle to hold the toggle tight against the boat when it is not being held. it's my own system. i just don't like banging toggles.
the next picture shows a bit of that detail:
the purple line is the perimeter line. the black line is the toggle line and the black and yellow fleck is some thin bungee cord that pulls the toggle down to the deck when not in use. the yellow line around the perimeter line allows me to adjust the tension on the perimter line. in this picture, i pushed the toggle over onto the side of the boat just for this picture, but normally the bungee would pull the toggle onto the deck like in this picture:
the fittings on these boats are simple loops of webbing thru-bolted with stainless steel bolts, washer and locknuts....and is the standard stuff CLC provides in a shearwater kit. in the boat above, i painted the fittings flat black to make them disappear into the webbing.
the picture below is just showing using blue tape to plan the rigging before any holes are drilled. in this picture the holes were drilled and i retaped it...but i did this and checked all my measurements and aesthetics with tape prior to making holes in the hull. it also allows you to think about bulkhead positions and other things that impact rigging. i often take water bottles, paddles and other gear for the deck and confirm the spacing of everything as part of this process.
anyway, i hope this helps. you have a very interesting project.
h
answer to your questions is above
Hi hspira,
Thank you very much for the comments and inputs.
But the pictures you uploaded is still in low resolution. I can't even read the numbers from your handwritten design. You can open this link to see what I see.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/NztGZv2BjcJvjWXE7
Do you use Google photos? Maybe you can share an ablum just for these pictures.
chi
Hi Chi,
hmmm. that's odd. here is the underlying link:
https://i.postimg.cc/ncDhBnNw/20211020-223724-1.jpg
can you try that and let me know if it is clear?. this is the first time i am hearing that the resolution is any lower than what i see when i post it.
h
chi,
fwiw, i also went to a different computer owned by somebody else (and the pictures are clear.
if any other forum member can corroborate that....but i think the problem may be in your device/configuration.
h
This link is alright. It has much better resolution
https://i.postimg.cc/ncDhBnNw/20211020-223724-1.jpg
I tried my MacBook and the pictures from your posts are all in low resolution. Maybe you are right. There is some configuration or setting problem in Mac.
chi
the link i sent you is where clc is sending you - its just not embedded in their page. but its the same final location. so if, while you are in the forum, you hover over the picture and right mouse click, you should see an option called 'open up link in a new tab' on your browser (i am using chrome) - you will go directly to the Postimages site which is where the pictures in full resolution are hosted.
h
Hi h,
I found a workaround. It seems that if I open your pictures in new tabs, I can get the correct resolution.
Thanks,
chi
Yes, I got it. Thanks again!