What tools? Where to build?

Builder's Forum
1

I am interested in building a canoe or kayak (havent decided) but as a beginner, I'm not sure what tools or workplace is required to do so. I'm willing to buy the tools and I do have a garage to work in, but it is not heated and I am worried that I will need to heat it in order to complete my project (winter gets to be -45 celcius on a really cold day). Is there somewhere that I could learn the basics? I have looked at literature but there is so many books to buy I don't know which would be the best beginners book.

Thanks!

2

Assumng you are working from plans, you will need pencils, a straight edge, a tape measure, a square, a batten for marking curved lines, a low angle block plane and a saw. The saw could be a circular saw with a thin blade, a jigsaw, or even a Japanese pull saw. You will also need a random orbital sander and lots of sanding disks. Painter's tape can be useful. You will also need scissors for cutting fibreglass cloth, and a utility knife if you have to trim the edges after the epoxy has cured. You will need stir sticks, containers for mixing epoxy. Those small yoghurt containers about the right size for me. You will need a squeegie for applying epoxy, and lots of disposable brushes. Don't forget gloves. I'm using nitrile. You will need clamps. Lots of clamps. Get even more clamps.

-45C is too cold. If you will actually be working with epoxy, the room will have to be heated. Well insulated and heated would be even better.

There's lots of good info on this site. Read all of the tips a few times. Look at the previous forum posts. Most questions have been asked before, and most mistakes have already been made by others. The most important thing is to get started and to believe that you can do it. You will have fun on your first build and learn a lot, and have even more fun on subsequent ones! You will never stop learning. Don't forget to get out on the water once in a while too!

Keith

3

Assumng you are working from plans, you will need pencils, a straight edge, a tape measure, a square, a batten for marking curved lines, a low angle block plane and a saw. The saw could be a circular saw with a thin blade, a jigsaw, or even a Japanese pull saw. You will also need a random orbital sander and lots of sanding disks. Painter's tape can be useful. You will also need scissors for cutting fibreglass cloth, and a utility knife if you have to trim the edges after the epoxy has cured. You will need stir sticks, containers for mixing epoxy. Those small yoghurt containers about the right size for me. You will need a squeegie for applying epoxy, and lots of disposable brushes. Don't forget gloves. I'm using nitrile. You will need clamps. Lots of clamps. Get even more clamps.

-45C is too cold. If you will actually be working with epoxy, the room will have to be heated. Well insulated and heated would be even better.

There's lots of good info on this site. Read all of the tips a few times. Look at the previous forum posts. Most questions have been asked before, and most mistakes have already been made by others. The most important thing is to get started and to believe that you can do it. You will have fun on your first build and learn a lot, and have even more fun on subsequent ones! You will never stop learning. Don't forget to get out on the water once in a while too!

Keith

4

PS - my first build was started outside during a spell of warm dry weather. Right after I applied glass to the bottom, rain was in the forecast. I put tarps up above the hull. It was awkward working under the tarps in the following days. I eventually moved into one of those tent / carport thingies. Outside was nice when it was dry. For future builds, I'm moving into a garage... when I empty it out a bit more. I will have the luxury of turning the heat up in winter, and it doesn't get anywhere near as cold as -45C where I am. +5C would be average in winter, but -5C to -10C could happen.

Keith

5

Get a "cabinet scraper" or a set of them. CLC carries them. Scraping runs and bumps is a lot quicker and easier than sanding them. No sanding dust!

Keith

6

If you are planning to build a stitch and glue CLC boat, why not buy a book by CLC's founder, Chris Kulcycki? He has written three taht are relevant to you (and I have both of the kayak books). In reverse order of publication, they are:

The Canoe Shop

The New Kayak Shop

The Kayak Shop

These books all have tool and shop suggestions, and even plans. You could conceivably build a boat right from these books without buying anything else (but you'll have the good sense to at least buy full size plans).

Or if you're going to build a strip built boat, buy Nick Schade's book The Strip Built Sea Kayak.

All these books are sold here on the CLC site. I read both the kayak books through a couple times before I attempted my kit build. Very useful information about setting up the shop and having proper tools.

If you have never done any of this and don't want to get too invested before you really know whetehr this is for you, buy Dynamite Payson's book Building the New Instant Boats and for about $100 and a couple weekends you can Build your first boat (if it's the Tortoise). That's how I got started, anyway (I have three boats under my belt now).


7

Thanks for your responses!

I plan on doing more research, and perhaps buy some insulation for the garage. I think I could probably keep it at around 5 deg C if I needed to, it just might cost a bit more in electricity.

I plan on buying books once I have a better idea of what I want to build.

Thanks again!

Erick

8

Hi,

we got ourselves an "Incra T-Rule" which became very handy for marking  rabbets for example. Wouldn't like to work without it any more. See: https://www.incrementaltools.com/Articles.asp?ID=160

If you get started do not save on grinding paper, get the best quality, the one professionals use - it lasts much longer, grinds much better and saves a lot of time.

Very good are also the Shinto Rasps. its a good investment.

Have good start!

Reinhard

 

 

9

Most kit page have a link to the "Supplies List for Kit Builders" which might help you detertime what you need. 

You might be able to use a 'story stick' to get the needed length or depts for fitted parts as you assemble the kit.

You sould "measure twice and cut once" to preent errors. It is also a good idea to use the same tape mearsure or ruller for measuring and marking to reduce the chances or error.

10

I have one build under my belt, it's a Great Auk. It was a challenge, but not difficult even for a first time novice...the next one I will be a second time novice. After months of net searching, opinion gathering, and general information gathering, I decided on a CLC strip kayak. This is some of what I did and learned along the way. 

I bought " The Strip Built Sea Kayak " and read it cover to cover, then read it again so I actually understood what it said. Before I was done I bought Building Strip Planked Boats and The New Kayak Shop. The first one was my "bible" but they all gave me valuable information. 

I was able to travel from western NY to Annapolis MD, for a look at the CLC shop and showroom, and ask more questions. It wasn't necessary, but it was fun, and helped me decide which boat to build.

Between the books, Tips for boat building,, the builders forum, and calling CLC for assistance, you have all the information and resources needed to build a great boat. When you post a question on the forum you may get many replies, you may get none. If its none, it's not personal, the person or people with the info you seek, just might not be on during that time. It made me re-check the book, tips, and previous forum posts. Almost always, I had forgotten what I had read, or missed it entirely. 

Sometimes I found myself not doing something with the idea, if I don't do it...I can't mess it up! That's silly...when they tell you on here, or in the books, almost no mistake is un-fixable, or that you will be the only person to notice it...They are right!! Not one person has ever noticed or pointed out anything I would consider sub par work by me. 

The tools needed are minimal... A.small block plane, rabbit plane, jack knife...always keep blades sharp...pull saw, miter box for scarfs, I took advice and made my own.....lots and lots and lots of clamps........more clamps!! Quality sandpaper....do not!  cheap out on the sandpaper, the idea that you can get so much more for less money is a bad idea and you will end up buying the better stuff anyway, orbital sander, furniture scraper.....I bought mine because I didn't wipe off the excess wood glue as I went, because it didnt look so bad when it dried...HUGE!! mistake...lots of extra work. 

Don't expect perfection, you can't achieve it....don't settle for mediocrity, it's easily surpassed and you're better than that. 

If you get impatient....walk away, patience is far more important than ability.

sorry this is long, and I'm sure incomplete...but use this site for the great resource that it is...make you decision, and go for it!!  You will not regret it. 

Duuane

more clamps!!

 

11

Erick...

> and perhaps buy some insulation for the garage. I think I could probably keep it at around 5 deg C if I needed to...

That will help. As well as insulating and heating the garage, you could drape a tarp or a sheet of poly over the boat and put an incandescent light or two in or under the boat, or a portable electric heater. Just make sure nothing combustible can make contact with them. I used a thermostaticaly controlled portable electric heater in my first build with a tarp draped over everything. Even though I built in summer, there were some cool evenings. As there was a thermosat on the heater, I was able to keep it toasty in the boat when I needed to without having it run continuously.

Keith

12

In regards to heating the garage, don't make the same mistake that I did a few years back.  I was doing some glueups for bentwood lamination for a rocking chair, and needed to get the temp up.  I used a portable propane heater, but forgot about extra ventilation.  I ended up with a terrible headache and I'm sure that I had a mild case of carbon monoxide poisoning.  Electric heat is definitely the way to go.