The scuppered inwales: A handmade boat doubles in appeal with this option, but it is a bit fussy to install. The instructions provided with the CTC kit are very thorough, but there are no details about cutting the spacers. I have a crosscut sled which I built for my table saw.
It will be worth building one of those just for this project, but you will probably get many more other uses of it. I’ve included a picture of mine fitted with a stop for cutting uniform blocks. With my sled I used both hands to hold the stock on each side of the cut, and safely pushed the sled and stock through the blade using my body. With this method I cut the seventy or so identical blocks needed.
The instructions suggest that you calculate your block and space lengths, and then use a spacer sized block to position the scupper blocks, and test fit a whole boat side using clamps. That’s a good idea, and you are going to eventually need every clamp you have and all you can borrow, but do only one side first. I started at the installed breasthook, clamped my blocks, and then, after adjusting, I marked my block positions with a light pencil line on the gunnel. I did the necessary fudging as described in the instructions when I was approaching the quarter knee.
On the opposite side of the boat, you want the blocks and spaces to match. At certain places (where there are ore locks or structural members), differences across will be noticeable, so the marks and adjustments should be determined before the blocks are permanently attached. You could complete the final attachment process for the blocks on one side (see below), and then repeat the dry clamping process on the other and make adjustments so that the block positions appear the same across the boat. Then pencil mark each block’s position.
Here is where I saved a lot of fussy, messy clamping: I used my pencil marks rather than a spacer block when I glued the scupper blocks. I have only two hands to hold things, plus I didn’t want to keep reusing a spacer block contaminated with epoxy. An epoxied block can move a lot in the clamping. When I epoxied the blocks in place I did not clamp them. Instead, I lined up each block referencing pencil marks. and attached each one with 2 pins using a pneumatic pin nailer. Way easier, especially later removing excess epoxy that squirts out (no clamp in the way). But be sure of your spacing because you can’t reposition them after pinning.