End pours & attaching deck to the hull

Builder's Forum
1

I'm building a S&G Shearwater 17.  2 questions:

1) Any benefit of doing the end pour before joining the deck to the hull?  I'm thinking of using plywood from leftover deck forms, shaping to size and installing about 7" from the bow and stern.  Once glued in, I can complete the end pour without the gymnastics required to do it at a later step.  Has anyone tried this?

 2) I tack welded the hull and deck, and then wired together as directed.  I finished glassing the hull and dry fitted the deck back on to check alignment and noticed the deck hangs over the hull slightly in several areas - especially by the hatches.  I'm concerned that once I glass the deck it might be too "stiff" to wire it for proper fit.  Does it just require more muscle (tape, wire, etc.) for proper fit, or can I expect some hangover that can be sanded flush with the hull once cured?

Thanks in advance - the forum is great! 

2

Rico --

With respect to Q#1, yes, that's exactly what I did with my LT-17 and Ches. 14, except that I put the dams closer to the ends so I wouldn't need as much epoxy for the end pours. When I attached the deck, I just plunked some pretty stiff glops of epoxy on top of the endpours to fill up any void between the top of the endpours and the underside of the deck. Easy, and no gymnastics.

3

Set the dams only two or three inches in or you will have too much weight in the ends of the boat. As for the overhang, pull it in as much as you can with strap clamps, then sand off any excess after attaching the deck to the hull.