I try to avoid using abrasive paper if possible, it's expensive and slow and sanding epoxy clogs the paper. It also produces poisonous dust.
I use a cabinet scraper to level epoxy coatings. Takes about 2 hours to level a kayak exterior. There's no dust, just epoxy shavings. A 6" wide scraper produces flat surfaces without any scratch marks.
My favorite scraper which I have used for 30 years of proffessional woodworking was 3" wide when I bought it and it's 2" now, so the cost is negligible. The edge doesn't last long used on epoxy and even less when glass is encountered so I have several and sharpen them together. I make them myself by cutting up worn out handsaw blades on a metal guillotine.
The page address is for an article on how to use and sharpen scapers. When I scrape epoxy I don't hone the scraper on a stone, I just file the edge square with a fine file.
I also use a scraper to level and smooth paint, primer and undercoat, and varnish.
The page address is for an article on how to use and sharpen scapers.
http://www.finefurnituremaker.com/news/?p=53
Thanks David—I am into wood working myself–the kayak and the whole glass-resin thing is all new. I have several scrapers [some are of the collectible variety] and I was looking at the whole lots of paper and dust [which is just around the corner] and I had it in mind to give the scraper thing a try first before plunking down my money for a variety of abrasives and having to buy enough of each to get a quanity discount. Your heads up is right on time–Glad to hear that it works—CZ
A few questions that I forgot to ask in the previous post. Are you using a single cut file? Are you draw fileing ? are you using a burnishing tool? --Thanks CZ
Great article. So if I want to use a scraper to smooth the epoxy on my Chesapeake Double, which would you recommend? Size/brand? Price is not important- I realize that you usually get what you pay for with hand tools.
Interesting concept! I used a 1/2" wood chisel to shave blobs of epoxy off the glass (runs, drips, etc.), and it was very similar to shaving glue blobs off of a wooden seam. Just another thought (easier than sanding through those blobs!!!).
Larry
I ordered one of these from Home Depot and love it - one of my absolute favorite tools when I was working on my Shearwater. It worked excellent for smoothing the inside of the coaming lip as well as getting the epoxy smooth. I found that if I went over major drips/runs lightly with 60 grit sandpaper on a sanding block first just to get the top edge off and then hit it with the scraper it worked best.
http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc1vZ1xh8/R-100145658/h_d2/ProductDisplay?langId=-1&storeId=10051&catalogId=10053
I also have a cabinet scraper (basically a flat piece of metal) but I didn't like it as well - not nearly as much control, but I'm sure with practice it would have been good too.
Kathy
Such an interesting post. I must agree, sanding epoxy is a messy, dusty, noisy job. Having dabbled in home woodworking for about 30 years, I too prefer scraping or, even better if the material will allow it, a cut finish using an extremely sharp plane (I have made several wooden planes ~ a la James Krenov ~ which work superbly.
I spent yesterday morning sanding the hull of my C16 ~ very coarse work with a Festool 6" Rotex (Random Orbital) Ended up with some bare patches, despite reading all the warnings ! So need to apply glass patches in places today.
Kathy, your scraping gizmo sounds like a must. Trouble is, home depot is a long way (10 000 kilometres) from where I live. I really envy you lucky folk who live in the US ~ You have a large market (competition) and a wide range of supplies.
How DID Noah manage to build that Ark ?
Dave
I also use a scraper for removing epoxy. I like the idea that I'm not using a noisy, dusty machine ... I can actually hear the radio while working! My only "gripe" would be the constant burnishing to renew the burr.