I made it the hull is stiched together now just need to find help to turn it over so I can start glueing. The progess so far has taken 47 hrs not sure how that stacks up but I am pleased. had suprising number of stich holes that had to be redrilled because of alignment problems. But I am very pleased with the quality of my kit so far.
Larry
Hi,
I used ratchet straps attached to the ceiling to be able to flip it myself. Here is a link to some photos.
Yep, Rich67 has the right idea for single-handed manipulating a work-in-progress.
Once I got my Harken Hoister installed, rolling my Waterlust project over & back's a one-person job. Ratchet straps - as long as they're long enough and the mounts in your ceiling are up to it - ought to be a workable solution too.
I think it is a good idea to get some help flipping the boat for the first time. The hull isn't as firm as it will be after some glue and fiberglass, so greater care is warranted. But the first flip has its dangers. All those wires sticking out at odd angles are little parasites lusting for blood!
I agree with Rich67 and Spclark that you will eventually benefit from setting up a turning system that you can use by yourself. Here is a link to a blog page where I show my own system.
Soninlaw came by to help me do the first flip. Got the first glue step done and have since rigged up a system of pulleys and rope to flip it back over to pull the plank stiches. That went well got them all out except for three that broke, what do I do about the broken stiches. They are stiking up just enough to get my sand paper when I get to that step.
Larry
If enough wire is sticking up so that you can grab it with a tool, try using a soldering iron to heat up the wire and release it from the epoxy. Then it should pull out easily. Truthfully, though, I wouldn't worry too much. Copper wire is soft and will be sanded flat. Then you entomb it beneath coats of epoxy and perhaps fiberglass cloth. Problem solved. Indeed, pulling the wires creates its own problems. After they are out, you have tiny holes in your hull. Maybe subsequent coats of epoxy and varnish will fill them. Maybe not. . . . When my dory is sailing at full speed and heeling to leeward, there are a couple of little places where water still comes through the stitch holes!
Yeah, broken stitch wires are a bother if you don't want to just file 'em flat & get on with things. I got all the stitches pulled a few days ago on my Waterlust project.
Those that had been glued in near shear clamps & a few other places proved no problem once heated quickly with my modified soldering gun tips. I described that in another thread on Pulling Stiches but if there's little left exposed to get a grip on it's not going to help much.
I'll have to be extra careful to ensure all the 18 ga. wire holes get plugged prior to applying the sealing coats of epoxy that'll happen later! I'd prefer its hull to be 100% free of any potential entry points for water of course!
I agree that it's preferable to have all the stitch holes filled and a 100 percent watertight boat. But, again, I suggest that one not get to concerned. Unless you are going to fill all the hundreds of stitch holes with some kind of paste and then paint the hull (to cover up the discoloration caused by the filler), you inevitably run the risk that some stitch holes will remain as potential tiny "leaks." None of these will be below the water line because that entire area on the dory is covered by fiberglass cloth. Those above the waterline will be impermeated by multiple coats of epoxy and varnish so there is little risk of damage to the wood. So what if a little water gets in on rare occasions? You are also going to get water in your boat from wet feet, dripping oars, damp swimsuits, and all of the gawkers drooling over you brightwork.
Well I guess I was worried about nothing, I will just file or sand them down. Now on to the next long step.
Larry