Hi all! I am just beginning my Northeast Dory. So far, I have the bulkheads, skeg, transom, and hull panels assembled, ready for the lonesome hours of sanding to come in preparation for stitching.
If you want to follow my build blog, heres the link:
Oceanluvr, your previous posts were what motivated me to build the northeaster* dory instead of the skerry! Best of luck on your build and please send me updates and pictures on how your build is going. Do you have a build blog going?
Building blog! I am lucky i can type LOL. In all honesty I don't think i can find the time to write a blog, but I am going to take photos throughout the build and will post them as some point.
Not sure how to leave a comment on your blog and it's probably too late but I understand that some folks use the bulkhead doublers as templates for the foam flotation blocks that go under the seats. Enjoy your build.
Catboater, thank's for your comment. The doublers template has already been transferred to some spare cardboard. Any more tips would be greatly appreciated
Hi Giggin, I've also started my Northeaster, just a little behind you. Question: How much sanding before you start the stitching? Are you looking to have clean panels and no epoxy stain anywhere? Or is it a case of just removing the lumps and bumps? Why you ask? I've just finished the glue up of the bottom puzzle joint, there are places where a couple of the 'tongues' are a little proud on one side. I've sanded some but am of the view that the fibreglass and epoxy to be done on the bottom will offer an opportunity to get it all to a smooth surface later. If its going to be detectable later, best i get on and do more sanding! Thoughts?
Don't worry about epoxy staining. If you try to sand the stains out, you run the risk of sanding right through the first layer of veneer. On my boat I did try to sand the lumps and bumps to provide a flat surface for the fiberglass cloth.
Thanks for that Birch2. Am very conscious about too much sanding, however I thickened the epoxy with cell-o-fill on the number 1 panel puzzle joints and I'm worried that this will show through the varnish finish I have planned for the interior....you know I've just answered my own question. I was going to say the concern was'nt so much for the bottom puzzle joint because that will be under a layer of f/glass cloth...then i realise so will panel 1!!!! Duh! OK, next issue I have tried to find reference too in all the forum exchanges, is about unthickened epoxy to go over a puzzle joint AFTER it has had its initial glue up and has cured and I find that one or two of the fingers is a little 'proud' ...off ....perfectly flat. Too much sanding a no no.. so what about a thin layer of unthickened to take out the dip/bump and then feather the sanding to the ply either side? The outsides of the panels I'm ok with because i intend to paint, its more critical for the inside faces...am i thinking logically...or just being too anal?
I had a couple of puzzle joints that were uneven enough that I was concerned about oversanding. So I made up some fairing epoxy that I thickened so it was softer than a fillet mix, with the wood flour and squeegeed it into the low fingers, then sanded. Granted, I was planning a painted finish from the start, but it still looked pretty good under the final epoxy coatings before I painted.
I had only one puzzle joint that was uneven enough to be of concern. I sanded through the top layer of veneer (more or less accidentally), but I'm not bothered in the least by the outcome. Wood has lots of variations in color and this is just one of them.
The good news is that this has absolutely no effect on the boat's ability to sail fast!
Thanks Sawdust and Birch2, much appreciated. Love this forum on CLC's platform! Does'nt matter where we are and the time zone differences between us benefits my working hours. At the end of the day I post my questions and when I start the next day I have answers..how good is that? Our winter just starting but very mild in comparison to what you have experienced in North USA this year.
I've been following your blog on your dory build -- it's looking great! I'm at the sanding/ varnishing stage of my dory and have linked to my pictures before -- but thought I would share the link again. I also have some hints on the spacered inwales -- my method differs somewhat from what John C. describes in his method. (Search on inwales in the forum -- my method is brilliantly titled 'My Method'). I'll be posting more pictures this weekend -- but here's the link:
Dave, your Dory (not to mention your pulley system) is looking absolutely fantastic! Wow. I'll be sure to read about "Your method", I gave Johns a read on lunch break about a week back it threw me for a loop!
I'm thinking about staining my Dory's inwales (along with all the spacers) and rubrails... I want to create some contrast against the Okoume interior, which will be varnished. However, I have already put the breasthook on so I won't be able to stain that. Will the difference in color between the breasthook and the inwale be too funky? What do you think?
Lovely shop by the way, I hope to one day have my own!
I did want a contrast with the inwales which is why I went with the white oak. (Plus, I had some white oak left over from another project.) I like contrast in the wood -- plus the finished edge of the plywood looks like inlayed stringing. So -- I would go with the contrast. I'm also using some curly maple in the thwarts and in the oarlock riser blocks. That's looking pretty sharp!
Above all -- it's your boat. I'm viewing mine as floating furniture and have been having fun with that.
Are you a furniture maker -or- only a hobbyist? Either way, a true craftsman. I also like how you brought the outwales to a point without rounding at the bow (they're quite rounded on the plan if I remember right), I may have to take some inspiration from that! I was going to mention the finished edge of the plywood adding quite a bit of character, I am definitely going to make sure I get that edge nice and flush now.
I'm looking forward to seeing it varnished. Enjoy the sanding ;)!
One more thing before I throw in the towel for the night, somebody may be able to talk some sense into me.
I'm *thinking* I would like the look of using countersunk screws on the outwales and plugging with matching -or- contrasting wood bungs. I'm having a bit of trouble picturing the final product in my head and don't want to get the port side done and realize I've made a big mistake.