I recently scarfed together 2&1/4 sheets. I used the packing tape method to help with the clean-up but still have some high spots. (like 1/4"-3/8") where there was room between the joint and the plastic sheeting.
Sanding will fix it (eventually) but is there a secret method that some of you use?
Ideas= cabinet scraper, block plane, Hot iron over a paper bag or towel? (removes wax from carpet)
Any ideas out there?
A.J.
update
It is epoxy with silica powder. How much will this affect the sanding of it?
AJ, I’m not the expert here that others are, but in my limited experience building a Skerry last year, the cabinet scrapers do a fair job removing heavy stuff and then plain old sandpaper and elbow grease. Just from my limited experience for what it’s worth. I feel certain though that with the expertise here, someone else will probably offer up something more appropriate. Let’s see…Best, Bob H.
update:
I used my cheaper block plane and it did the trick. I'm sure it will need some sharpening now though. Shaving epoxy with sand embedded in it can't be good for it.
Some sanding should smooth out the rest.
A dremel with a sanding drum goes through epoxy globs like a hot knife through butter.
Or a regular drill with a sanding drum if you don't have a dremel. Comes in handy sanding the coaming later on.
Or an ROS with 60 grit.
Kim
What I use, with some notes on the applications.
Dremel with cutter wheel (or sanding drum)
--Lightening fast.
--Usable on convex surfaces like fillets.
--High dust, unless you position vacuum cleaner nozzle to catch all the dust coming off of the wheel. Use a good mask and eye protection. Respirator style mask is best. Goggles help for eyes but are not really a good solution, haven't found a good solution.
--Not usable for final passes. Cannot be controlled easily, so it gouges.
Carbide scraper
--No dust, very easy cleanup.
--Lasts forever, blades easily replaced, never needs sharpening.
--Rapid and ideal for finish passes on globs which have been flattened by dremel.
--Rapid and ideal for long "runs" or ridges up to about 1/8 inch high, (not just finish passes in this case).
--"Tells" you where you are and when you are finished, by sound, feel, and visually with a long clean curl of removed material which widens as you work the ridge down, then ceases when you are done.
--Not ideal for globs. Tends to "grab" when it hits a glob. Requires technique. A light touch till blade is riding on the glob, then appy strong pressure to carve away a good amount. Change direction of attack occasionally. Much easier for globs to do rough cut with dremel.
Block plane
--Easiest finishing tool in terms of ease of use for any non-convex, fairly flat accessible surface. Reason is that it requires no technique or touch, regardless of glob or ridge. Just hack away and it "knows" exactly how to flatten a glob, and it stops cutting when the surface is perfect.
--But generally not suitable for extended use. Requires frequent sharpening, even more if fused silica is in the epoxy. After a half hour of use, a whole new primary edge will be needed, not just honing. Meaning, you are starting with rasp, 50 grit paper, or grinding jig, and working your way gradually up to 6000 grit or whatever you like to end with. More labor hours consumed by the sharpening (if manual) than with the work itself.
Cabinet scraper.
--Similar to carbide scraper, except: cheaper to buy, requires fairly frequent sharpening, doesn't grab on globs near as badly.
Sanding
I usually don't sand, for removing runs and globs. It works, but leaves dust and you always remove material that you don't want to remove, from the first pass. To get finish surface, you have to cut into the surface itself
Goggles...I wear swim goggles when I really want to protect my eyes. Especially while cutting onions.
Kim
I found a wood chisel to be very effective at removing epoxy blobs. It cut them so cleanly they needed only minimum sanding to finish off.
Heat gun. Heat 'em up until they are soft & scrape 'em off with a putty knife. Quick & easy. This works for resin spilled/dripped in the floor, or any surface where it’s not wanted. Good luck. Jer
Jer,
THAT is the kind of info I was looking for.
Thanks for the tips all.