The skeg box & etc. should add more than enough strength to offset any weakness induced by cutting the skeg slot, thus a centerline position should be fine (and recommended - otherwise you'll have to create some fancy shimming as a part of the install to keep the skeg vertical). BUT...
Near the bow?! That will tend to create a lot of weather helm. Note that I'm not aware of any sailboat of any design that uses an underwater foil "near the bow" - and that ought to lead you to question your idea on positioning.
Are you also going to rig amas/outriggers or a centerboard? Seems any underwater foil intended to develop a center of lateral resistance will need to be nearer to the fore-aft midpoint of the boat (under the forward part of the cockpit). If you're taking anything like a normal sized skeg, I also believe it will be too small to be very effective. Will you also be installing a rudder?
If you haven't looked at a basic diagram of the forces involved in making a sailboat go, I recommend doing that. Something like this
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Forces_on_sails
-Pay attention to how the fore-aft distance between the CE of the sails and the CR of the centerboard needs to be relatively small, and offset by the force of a rudder in order to steer a straight course. A larger distance between CE and CR means a lot of lee or weather helm, and a lot of rudder angle (and thus drag) to offset it. At some point the rudder becomes insufficient to offset large amounts of lee helm (dangerous) or weather helm (the boat rounds up into the wind and goes nowhere).
If you haven't looked at the CLC kayak sail rig kit on this website, I'd recommend doing that.
I might be missing something, but with what I'm seeing in my head based on your question about the retractable skeg, even with a quality sail rig, without a properly placed, properly sized underwater foil you are probably never going to achieve anything other than a beam reach.
I give a hearty "haul-away" to anyone willing to do some experimental designing, but making the experiment a built in part of the boat (like a skeg near the bow) might not be advisable. When experimenting, the first-draft installations are probably best done with duct tape and bailing wire until you've got something that works.
P.s. I sail my Chess 17 (with rudder) and a Windpaddle sail. I can only sail about 45 degrees either side of dead downwind. Otherwise I paddle. A kayak with a sail rig can easily sail upwind (about 45 degrees either side of the direction from which the wind is coming), but to do so takes a proper centerboard, or flat sided amas (like a Hobie Cat), and a real sail rig.