I’m nearing the point of putting the deck my Rhode Runner and am trying to figure out the butt block before epoxying it to the underside of the deck.
I just dropped it in to the frames to sees how it aligns and it seems…off. I expect the intent was for it to sit flush with the bresthook, but clearly the gap is half the thickness of the block.
I guess worst case I can figure something out but would prefer not to have either a big gap or perhaps thick layers of epoxy between the deck and breasthook and buttblock.
Also, I see some others put the buttblock and fix it in the boat before the deck. Any reason to do one over the other?
I have a couple of spots like this on my SW Dory. Total precision, as much as we all want it, (and CLC gets damn close), is impossible. You are going to run into these little situations. How you fix it is the fun creative part of boat building. A lot of experienced folks will chime in with good ideas. If it were me I’d get some thin plywood model veneer from a model hobby shop. Try to find the right thickness off the bat or enough thin pieces that you can achieve the right thickness then just epoxy and slide them in the gap. Or you could just find a piece of scrap okoume that is close and sand it to the right thickness.
I’ve just checked mine and it has exactly the same gap. The top of my frames 1,2 and 3 all meet exactly inline with the top of panel 4 so the heights of the frames are correct relative to the top of panel 4, and the breasthook also aligns with the top of panel 4 so everything seems to be in alignment but I still have exactly the same gap as yours. It’ll be good to hear from others that have completed the build - but you’re not alone - mine is exactly the same.
As for which way to install the butt-block, I’ve also questioned the best method, but to me the way in the plans seems the best as it gives a lot more support to the deck join when flipping the deck over and moving the deck into place. Relying on just a butt-joint glue seam and two layers of 6oz cloth on one side doesn’t give me much confidence flipping and moving such a large unwieldy piece. Bonding the butt-block to the deck first gives that centre glue joint a massive amount of extra strength and rigidity. Also, when the deck is fitted it forms a slight convex curve and with the butt-block already bonded onto the bottom of the deck it will keep that centre join flat and strong. If you install the butt-block onto the hull first then the top of the join in the deck will be under tension and could delaminate as there isn’t any strength in that upper surface until the deck is fully installed and glassed.
I don’t remember all the details on my build, but did spend some time and consideration on fit up of this butt block. I do know that I epoxied onto the deck first, then put the deck on later when the time came. The detail I spent time working out was fore/aft postion to ensure that it didn’t interfere with dashboard placement and still wasn’t too far forward so that deck would be able to bend down to meet breasthook and gunwale rails. Contrary to build guide I did put my outer gunwales (rub rails) on prior to placing the deck first (see pics), and used them as a way to clamp the deck down flush onto them. I spent a long time working with a straight edge to make sure the deck would bend down in smooth contact with the outer edge of the rug rail at all points around the perimeter of the boat - beveling the upper edge angle all around the hull down appropriately. I also did some rasping/ shaping on the outer edge of the breast hook. When all said and done, with careful deck placement there was enough material to clamp the deck down to the rubrail all the way around the boat with no gaps. Put nearly every tool (and other heavy items in the garage) I had to good use (see pic below) when gluing down the deck! I included a picture of the reenforced area I placed under the deck for stern cleats, using scrap okume. Also inserted a picture of the pressure treated 2x2 that I cut into a triangular/banana shape to reenforce area for bow eye. If I had that to do over I would have tapered off the upper and lower ends better to allow the glass tape to lay in easier - I did put epoxy filets above and below, but a smoother/longer taper would have been better.
Thought I’d add a picture of the supports I put in for battery placement, and of the hatch I installed for access to forward bow cuddy. The hatch has a watertight cover placed over it (the portion cut out from the bulkhead), just like the hatches on CLC kayaks.
Hi Jeff, Thanks for the details and photos. As always, I learn an incredible amount from your photos, it is extremely helpful.
I love the battery stand concept; I may copy it ;). Just one thought, did you look at rotating the batter box 90°, keeping the front floorboards in place, and just going under them with the battery strap?
Another question: It looks like you didn’t fix your floorboards in place. Do you fix them anywhere? do you have any issues with vibration when running? I was not planning to - I want access to the bilge, but am not sure if I need a latch or so to keep it down. (I know, this goes against the point above with not locking them in place).
Final question for today :). Did you add an additional cubby? I looks like another shelf, one behind the one as-designed one. Do you find it useful?
re battery placement: Goal was to keep it forward for improved trim, and as low in the boat as possible. Didn’t consider strapping it to floorboards because from the beginning I wanted my floor boards removable without any tools, or having to remove any interference (including unstapping and lifting off the battery). Not pictured, the center floorboard aft end has a big 1.5 inch or so diameter hole drilled through it so that a finger can be stuck down through the board to make it easy to lift them out. The floorboards can’t be any longer towards the front than mine are while still allowing them to be lifted out. And (assuming you place the battery forward) the lower mounting of the battery actually provides room to pile more junk up in this area when getting underway. I end up with this space always being filled with spare life jackets, ditty bag, 6 pack cooler, emergency paddle, umbrellas, etc.. My anchor and line (in a padded bag) is up in the enclosed bow compartment storage (I very rarely anchor). Make sure to size your motor starter cable wiring size appropriately for the longer battery cable run. Just by chance you can see where and how I wired my fuse box and battery disconnect switch. If I had it to do over I would have moved the disconnect switch back one bulkead - the one with the footrest just forward of the steering unit. It is a pain to lay down enough to reach all the way forward to access the switch in the postion I placed it, and as I said there is often junk I have to push aside to get to it. Placing it further aft would require a bit more cabling, but probably worth the convenience. And BTW, I’ve needed to retrieve “lost” items from the bilge numerous times. I don’t like to think about the hassle it would be to unscrew floorboards to get back the necklace or pencil or nut everytime one got dropped. I also installed a transom drain, so if the last outing has been extra sandy or muddy or too many cheetos found their way to the bilge I just raise the tongue of the trailer up high, pull the floorboards and give the boat a good wash-out when I get home.
re floorboards: they are built as a single removable unit, only set in place. The cross pieces epoxied under the floorboards (making them a single unit) are strategically placed to sit just in front of or just behind bulkheads so that the floorboard assembly cannot shift forward or aft. They don’t rattle. However, my rear seatback does rattle! I’ve used various pieces of self-adhesive foam door seals to try to limit that rattle, but the foam occasionally get pushed out of place and the rattle returns until again addressed. The loop in my throttle/shift cables also likes to rattle on the inner afterdeck lid. I just put a piece of foam under them just in front of the motor.
re the additional cubby: I’m pretty sure that the thing you are mistaking for a second shelf is the front seat support. I put that in earlier in the build than suggested in the builder’s guide. I wanted it to be painted - and I spray painted the interior prior to installing the deck. I didn’t want to have to go back and do that separately. Seemed easier and more efficient that way. But a word of caution - if you install the seat shelf supports prior to having the seats all built and ready for install you have to be very careful in getting the support shelf properly placed at the correct height and angle. I spent a good bit of effort aligning, double checking, and re-aligning prior to epoxying the supports into place. As it turned out I got them in correctly for the seat to later set in without needing to do anything like modifying the angle or height of the inboard pedestal leg on the seat, which I was ready to do if alignment wasn’t good enough.
Regarding battery placement: your concept is great. I will gladly copy it. For the floorboards, I was planning to screw them into crossbars from the bottom, similar your epoxy work. Will have to think about whether to make a hole in the floorboard to pick them up - you make me second guess because my initial idea was a hidden pull latch but a hole is so much less work. My life lesson with building this boat is less is more.
For the seats, my plan is to install everything as in the guide (screw chair to the seat support on the side plank and cockpit sole, epoxy the seat support and piece on the cockpit sole, unmount the seat from them and then drill-fill-drill to remount the seat, eventually. At least in my head seems the most straightforward way to ensure everything fits together. I am extremely nervous always with screws and plan to drill-fill-drill absolutely everything. Last thing I want is some rework on some soft wood. Still open for me is the mounting holes for the engine bolts. But first things first.
I also installed a hatch to the front. I can’t imagine the pain it would be when your navigation lights stop working and you have to troubleshoot that with a sealed front port. Storage is an added plus. I actually did the same on the two aft boxes, hiding a small hatch under the cover just in front of the engine, on either side. In that way, everything is at least conceptually accessible except the areas under the cockpit sole.
