Hello all...I'm new to this fourm and will be building a 16' ceder strip canoe.
The plans are from Floyd McGuckin & Jack Payn they used Redwood I'll be using Red & White Ceder and Ash.
My nick name is Splinterz25.... I was a cabinet maker/ machine opp. for 30 years
and also build large scale model airplanes as my hobby.
I saw one of these canoes while camping and decited to build one of my own.
Any help from you boat building vets will be very helpful and appreciated.
I'm in the process of gathering all the materials to start this build and should have enough to start w/ in a week or less.
Splinterz25
Glad to see your boat, I love it ,
beautiful, nice, thanks for sharing
plywood
skynovo
Congratulations! Have fun!
Thank you Dick Were looking forward to our next outting.
We had her out again this past weekend.We camped at Greenbrier State park MD. USA.
Were taking her (Serenity) a week long vacation next week I'll be sure and get some updated photos.
Bruce
Splinterz25,
welcome. a great general overview of the process is addressed in these two books that are available from CLC:
http://www.clcboats.com/shop/products/boat-building-books-kayaking-dvds/building-strip-planked-boats-nick-schade.html
and
http://www.clcboats.com/shop/products/boat-building-books-kayaking-dvds/strip-built-sea-kayak-nick-schade.html
there is a lot of duplication in these books but the first one actually takes you through the build of a strip-planked canoe. the second book is a little more comprehensive in my view about general considerations in strip-plank building issues
i had a lot of similar type of experience but have found these books excellent reference and helpful in thinking ahead and addressing the things that come up during the build process.
without more specific question the only advice i would offer is patience and don't hesitate to reach out on the forums with questions. also recommend the guillemot kayka forum as a resource as well http://www.kayakforum.com/cgi-bin/Building/index.cgi/page/1/md/read/id/229957/sbj/strip-stripping-near-cockpit-cutout-guillim/ they have a lot of strip-built builders there and it is very fast and quick turn-around on almost any question in the strip-built space.
best of luck
h
Thank you for the links hspira.
Well I've ordered most everthing and will be hand picking the lumber tomorrow.
I also bought a 13" Ridgid thickness planer
I bought 30 yards 55" W 6oz unidirectional fiberglass cloth this is made for epoxy resins which I'll be using.
For that I'll be getting the aero marine 1 1/2 Gal kit.
http://www.amazon.com/AeroMarine-300-Epoxy-Resin-Gallon/dp/B0047R2C9Y/ref=sr_1_1?s=industrial&ie=UTF8&qid=1406672175&sr=1-1
I bought one of the router bits the 1/8" round over bit the other is on order the1/4" U bottom straight cut.
These should let the strips fit nice and snugg at the edges.
And for the glue I ordered Cascophen two part resin system, this is simmilar to the old DAP marine glue ( Resorcinol) that you can't buy any more.
I'm trying to push and build this fast so I can take it camping at the end of OCTOBER?
It may be a bit larger task than I think but we'll see.
Next time hope to have some photos of the form and milled strips.
Splinterz25
sounds like a list.
the only thing that caught my eye was the glue.
most of the construction i have experience with and most of the folks i know work with simple Titebond wood glue or some variation of that. no need for Resorcinol/susbstitute.
the epoxy/glassing of the inside and outside should encapsulate the wood and provide the 'water-proofness'. in this construction, its not really a wood boat. it's a composite boat with a wood core....where you happen to be able to see the core.
the wood should never get wet.
since the epoxy is keeping the wood dry, you can keep the glue simple. the wood glue sets up fast and is easy to work with.
Howard
Thank you Howard.....I was wondering about the wood being encapsulated by the epoxy resin; and would Titebond be strong enough.
I have Titebond III on hand and may use that it's suppose to be water proof?
Well the Cascophen glue will be here on Thursday, I'll use that on the exposed parts and for making my paddles; and for my flying boat models.
I do have a question though; while reading I saw where after covering the canoe w/ glass & polyester resin they rough up the fin. surfface, and then applied Spar Varnish?
They say it's for UV protection.
When using the Epoxy resins is this still nessary to cover w/ Spar Varnish?
Or is it tough enough on it's own?
Bruce
UV light will cause unprotected Epoxy to discolor and eventually break down. Paint is the best UV blocker but to show off your beautiful stripper four or five coats of a good spar varnish is a must.
Okay catboater will do I want it to stay nice after all of this hard work.
Well I have riped out the strips from 6 -18' x 1"x 6" WRC I had a few of the boards w/ out many nots but I did end up w/ some smal pieces.
I'll scarf joint those and I should have more than enough strips to build this canoe.
I also ran the cove and bead in all of the pieces and I'm glad it done; I't's not easy runnung these thin strips a 18'.
I also have recieved my glue but went ahead and bought titebond for thr bead glue up.
And I picked up the materials for the strong back and forms.
Here's afew photos of my setup for routing the bead and cove.
Well I'm not sure how to post them on this site anyone want to clue me in?
Uni glass is an unusual choice for a strip build. You'll need to run it in 90 degree segments across the boat (across the strip joints), and it may not wet out as clear as a plain weave due to the thicker glass threads. There's no need to overlap the adjacent panels, just butt them somewhat tightly together.
It would be a good idea to have some plain weave or twill on hand for stuff other than hull laminating: stem reinforcement, thwart tabbing, that kind of stuff, where uni doesn't really work.
nemochad...Thank you for the heads up w/ the fiberglass; but since the plans call for 2 layers of glass would it be a good idea to lay the first as you suggested cross wise and the second long ways?
I'll get some heavier plain weave cloth for stem reinforcement etc.
hspira...Thank you for the photo posting link; but I still having trouble?
I have an album on photo bucket now, but can't get theme from there to this forum?
Bruce
Yes, running a second layer lengthwise would be fine. Do check the wetting properties on a scrap piece first, to see if it goes clear. Glass is cheap, and if you're after a clear finish it would be silly to use something that stays milky.
nemochad..... I went to Thayercraft site the CO. I bought the cloth from and they say
It's good to run the layers cloth a 30 degrees to each other for strength: making an X
pattern, and I think I bought it wide enough to do this and still cover the canoe in one piece each time.
I'll be running a wetting test w/ two layers of cloth in this fashion today to see if you can see the woods color.
The forms are now all drawn up and ready to cut; for coast reasons I went w/ OSB in stead of PLY or MDF and CHIP BOARD those are $30 -$45 a sheet now days.
I need two sheets; the OSB $7 a sheet.
I'm now looking to find a good local source for ASH; BUT not having any luck so far.
Bruce
OKAY.... I ran the test w/ epoxy and two layers of the glass cloth 30 degrees to each other; and I see what you mean about the wetting factor, it's a bit stubborn to get it to wet at first but w/ some work it does wet out.
Of corse I did both pieces at the same time w/ out wetting the board first.
It's curing now and will let you know how it turned out.
I've cleaned the shop and I'm ready to start building the strong back.
I'll also be getting some help from my honey helping me w/ posting the photos later on today.
I've given up on the ASH and have opted for RED OAK I'll try and find the lightest boards I can, to give a nice contrast to thr RED CEDER.
I have another question; my plans show a 3/4" x 3/4" blunted V shape keel?
they are vage to say the least on this part, but it looks like it's screwed on w/ 1" brass screws just befor glasing.
Or should the bottom of the hull be glassed first then add the keel?
Or don't add it at all?
Any help here would be appreciated.
All the canoes I see being built do not have them?
The other thing this design does different is the Stem, they don't bend the wood into a curve; he has you glue to boards together making a 1 1/2" thick solid PINE Stem then bevel the angle to accept the strips leaving a 3/4" flat on the front to be covered w/ ceder before glassing?
Is one way better than the other? These are very old plans and I'm sure things are done a bit different now days.
Bruce
