Thank you Howard... I mostly wet sand kepping the dust down; when I said I was covered I basicly ment I was already into the sanding so I kept going for the day.
There's still a great deal of sanding before the brush gets dipped in varnish.
But I'm getting closer today I glassed in the bow bulkhead and deck to form a water proof seal (hopefully) I left a 2 " overhang / boarder insideon all edges and w/ a wet bottom on the deck, after wetting in the whole backside of the bulkhead; I placed and clamped in the deck then reached inside w/ a brush taped to a scrap stick and pressed the extra 2" piece to the bottom of the deck making the seal?
Then I also glassed the top of the aft deck and touched up some areas around the yoke that I had sanded.
I didn't show inside the bulkhead but I have photos if anybody wants to see these just ask then I'll post them; it's hard to tell what your seeing in these photos.
Well I was worried about the final epoxy finish on the aft deck though, now that it has cured I think it's looking very nice if I do say my self.
This is all of the epoxy resin that's going on the aft deck; it's finished.
Today I'll cut mount, glue the bow trim curve deck piece in and glass the bow deck; it has been sanded flush w/ the sides and a second epoxy coat has been added this should make the glassing of the top better.
I have just enough epoxy resin left to wet out the glass and give the bow a fill coat.
I hope to be; able to start varnishing the hull by the weekend.
And I'm still working on the seats; one seat back is now glued and I'm working on the seat frame that will get the webbing, (where your but will go) you'll see how this will go in the photos.
EPOXY RESIN: AeroMarine 300/21 1.5 gal kit w/ out pumps shipped - $113.69 (note- buy at least 3 gal at one time for a canoe this size and save $$$ on shipping)
FIBER GLASS: Thayercraft inc. 30 yds. - $ 82.21
Wood putty: Famowood: 1 pt. - $ 23 (note mix the wood dust w/ the wood glue and make you own; it matches better.
WOOD GLUE: TITEBOND: III Water proof 1 gal. - $ 28 at Lowes
Nice boat. That's really all I have to say except that I wanted to be the 100th post on this thread which is the longest I have ever seen in my 15+ years on here!
Thank you George.....YES this forum is very different than all the others I write on I was expecting more of a responce from all of the viewers; you know asking questions, giving tips things to watch out for and really helping out???
After saying that I did have a few guys that did answer my questions and were a big help Thank you to them
I build Giant scale model Airplanes as a hobby and post on several threads on about four sites and I have much more responce and participation there.
Maybe on my next Boat I'll post on a diferent site?
I chose this site because I live about 20 miles away from CLC's location.
Here's a photo of the boat I'm thinking of building next.
The majority of builders on here are probably more prone to stitch and glue but there are a lot of strip guys here as well. The Guillemot Kayak forum, run by Nick Schade, is the reverse with the majority being strip builders. Both forums are excellent places to get information. I haven't followed every post on this thread but it seems the majority of your questions got answered. And you have done a great job posting your techniques that will be helpful to a lot of new strip guys. Just because there wasn't as much traffic on your thread as you expected doesn't mean it wasn't being followed. There are a lot of guys here who read and don't post. If you look at the Guillemot forum the numbers are given for each view of a thread. There might be 20 posts to a thread but several hundred views. I suspect the same is true here. So keep us up to date on whatever it is you're building! I personally would love to see a thread on what you're thinking of building next as there's a Zephyr 16 (1939 stepped hydroplane by A. A. Apel) on my bucket list.
Thanks George I like everyting from that time period cars, planes, boats and even clothing.
I'm trying to find plans for that style boat taht can have an outboard engine instead of the inboard engine; but at the same time cover the engine mostly?
Not sure if they exist or not but I may be able to modify them I've found a few photos similar style boats w/ outboards; I'm in the very early stages of this project and have to get a larger detached shop first and do a great deal more planning.
But if you or anybody knows of plans for a boat like this I would love to see them?
I now have two coats of varnish on the first was thinned 10% w/ mineral spirits the second was not thinned.
Because I kept up w/ the sanding during the whole build it wasn't so bad getting it ready for varnish.
I followed your build. I didn't respond because you seemed to have a really good grasp on the process. Also, as previously stated by someone else, I don't have any experience with strippers. Congratulations on nearly completing you boat. JRC
Many times I'm tempted to take a finished product, new truck, new gun, new boat, etc out to the driveway and hit it with a piece of concrete. That way I get the first scratch out of the way and move through remorse so it doesn't spoil a future trip. Just talking................but you know it will happen. The good thing is you know how to fix it.
Grumpy you can bet it will be scratched before it leaves here to get put in the water...LOL
George...I found that site last night and they have just what I'm looking for a 16' Malahini; here's a photo of that boat and some of my canoe w/ varnish on the topside / inside.
WHILE I LET THE FIRST COATS OF VARNISH DRY VERY WELL
IT LOOKS LIKE I'LL NEED TWO MORE QT'S - 4 TOTAL
Well I've let the canoe dry very well there's one QT.of varnish on the hull and I have one left to apply; w/ the small amount left in the can I put two coats on the seat frame and backs and there drying.
I've also bent the pieces for the remake of the front seat base; as I said before they were to short; and I'll be gluing those this evening.
And I also have two sides of the paddles / blades covered w/ glass and epoxy; while doing this I coated my carved handles as well.
So once dry and sanded; then a fill coat goes on both sides and it's another 24 hrs. the dry time is what is slowing me at this point.
The varnish takes 48 hrs min. to dry all the way; once I have enough on the first seat base I'll start to run the red webbing, then I can move on to installing that aft seat bottom.
Thanks for the update. Beautiful paddles. It would be great to see the whole finished project in person some time. You need to plan a trip to the Mid Atlantic Small Craft Festival in St. Michaels, MD, next October. Over 200 hand built boats every year. You would fit right in!
Thank you George....The Mid Atlantic Boat Show; sounds like we need to put that on our list of things to do! Were less than two hrs away from
St Michaels and we were planing on a trip there anyway.
The Malahini is a good ways away I need a bigger shop detached from the house or a place to rent space. OH yea and all the materials & an Engine.
I would like to get the plans and start stocking tools and supplies though over the next year? Were thinking of moving so this may happen for the best and I get an detached shop out of the deal?
Here's some photos of the aft seat getting the webbing I used #6 stainless steal screws & washers to hold them in place.
The padles now have a third and final coat of epoxy resin and after a few days I'll sand them and start w/ the varnish coats.
THIS IS HEAVY STRAP POLY; THERE'S VERY LITTLE GIVE.
I THINK THESE ARE BETTER THAN STAPLES
YOU CAN SEE THE SEAT FRAMES ARE BENT 4 PIECES OF 1/4" AND HAVE A 5/16" OAK DOWEL; AND ALL GLUED W/ EPOXY GLUE.
THERE WILL BE TWO LEATHER STRAPS HOLDING EACH SIDE FROM FOLDING BACK AND A SNAP & STRAP TO HOLD THE SEAT BACK DOWN WHILE NOT IN USE.
I'LL MOUNT THE BACKS W/ THE HINGES AFTER MOUNTING TO THE CANOE.
THESE CURVES DON'T LOOK LIKE MUCH BUT WILL HELP YOUR LEGS AFTER SITTING AWHILE.
THIRD COAT OF VARNISH.
I'LL SCREW BRASS EYES TO THE BOW & STERN W/ 1 1/2" BRASS SCREWS INTO THE STEM.
THERE FINAL EPOXY COATING.
NOW I SAND THESE ONCE AGAIN AND START VARNISHING.
I SHOULD BE ABLE TO MOUNT THE AFT SEAT IN A DAY OR SO, BUT IT WILL COME OUT SO I CAN FINISH THE VARNISHING.
UPDATE: Temp instal of aft seat and prep for the Bow seat.
I'M NOT USING THESE NYLOCK NUTS UNTIL FINAL INSTLATION TAKEING THEM OFF AND ON WEARS OUT THE NYLOCK.
WING NUTS ARE USED TO MAKE IT EASIER WHILE WORKING.
BRASS ACORN NUTS WILL REPLACE THESE REG. NUTS.
LEATHER STRAPS WILL RUN FROM THE FRONT SEAT RAILS TO THE TOP OF THE SEAT BACKS.
WHEN FOLDED DOWN FOR TRANSPORT THERE WILL BE A SMALL LATHER STRAP IN THE CENTER SEAT BACK RAIL W/ A SNAP TO HOLD IN PLACE.
BOW SEAT RAILS CUT AND READY TO MOUNT.
THIS ONE WILL HANG DOWN 1 1/2" - 2" OR SO.
I've temp. mounted the aft seat to see how and show it will work; I will have to take it all apart and give everything 2-3 more coats of varnish, even the webbing will come off.
The nuts on top of the rails are inset but they will be replaced w/ brass acorn nuts this will look much nicer; on the bottom I've used wingnuts for the ease of temp mounting, these will be replaced w/ nylock 1/4" - 20 stainless nuts.
The brass tube is 1/2" w/ 1/16" thick wall w/ a 1/4" x 20 stainless all thread running through; I'm think about in setting the 1/4" nylock nuts on the bottom flush w/ the seat rails.
I still need to order the leather straps, snaps & studs; these will hold the seat backs from folding all the way back and down while in transport.
As I said before the dry time of the varnish is what's slowing me down at this stage of the build, 48 hrs dry time for each coat.
Both seats have been installed and removed the webbing was removed from the aft seat and a second coat of varnish was applied now to both seat frames; the paddles now have a second coat of varnish as well.
The hull has three coats of varnish on her now; we had a freek 80 degree day today so I removed the back door and took the canoe out to dry / cure in the heat; my basement was about 60 -65 degrees and progress was to slow.
Next: I'll be ordering two more qt.'s of varnish in a day or so this should give me enough to get 5-6 good coats on.
So I though it was a good time to clean the whole shop sweep, vac & mop
Glad to see you enjoying the boat. Great job on the build. Don't forget the Mid Atlantic Small Craft Festival in St. Michaels first weekend of October. I won't be able to make it this year but you really should get the boat over there. Always a fun time with a lot of like minded builders.
LUMBER & SCREWS & GLUE : STRONG BACK FRAME / FORM - $59.52
I now have two coats of varnish on the first was thinned 10% w/ mineral spirits the second was not thinned.
There's still a good bit of work yet though.
Well I've let the canoe dry very well there's one QT.of varnish on the hull and I have one left to apply; w/ the small amount left in the can I put two coats on the seat frame and backs and there drying.
I THINK THESE ARE BETTER THAN STAPLES
YOU CAN SEE THE SEAT FRAMES ARE BENT 4 PIECES OF 1/4" AND HAVE A 5/16" OAK DOWEL; AND ALL GLUED W/ EPOXY GLUE.
THERE WILL BE TWO LEATHER STRAPS HOLDING EACH SIDE FROM FOLDING BACK AND A SNAP & STRAP TO HOLD THE SEAT BACK DOWN WHILE NOT IN USE.
I'LL MOUNT THE BACKS W/ THE HINGES AFTER MOUNTING TO THE CANOE.
THESE CURVES DON'T LOOK LIKE MUCH BUT WILL HELP YOUR LEGS AFTER SITTING AWHILE.
THIRD COAT OF VARNISH.
I'LL SCREW BRASS EYES TO THE BOW & STERN W/ 1 1/2" BRASS SCREWS INTO THE STEM.
THERE FINAL EPOXY COATING.
NOW I SAND THESE ONCE AGAIN AND START VARNISHING.
I'M NOT USING THESE NYLOCK NUTS UNTIL FINAL INSTLATION TAKEING THEM OFF AND ON WEARS OUT THE NYLOCK.
WING NUTS ARE USED TO MAKE IT EASIER WHILE WORKING.
BRASS ACORN NUTS WILL REPLACE THESE REG. NUTS.
LEATHER STRAPS WILL RUN FROM THE FRONT SEAT RAILS TO THE TOP OF THE SEAT BACKS.
WHEN FOLDED DOWN FOR TRANSPORT THERE WILL BE A SMALL LATHER STRAP IN THE CENTER SEAT BACK RAIL W/ A SNAP TO HOLD IN PLACE.
BOW SEAT RAILS CUT AND READY TO MOUNT.
THIS ONE WILL HANG DOWN 1 1/2" - 2" OR SO.
