I buit a 20' bench on rollers , I even added a bottom shelf so I could stash a kayak on the bottom shelf ( like I said there's always room for 1 more) I can give you details if you want to build one.I also instaled an electric hoist on a roller track and cradles on the wall . I can't figure out how to do pics on this site ,let me know if you want more info
Hi Greg27,
I would like more information on your table and hoist system.
You can email me at bowmanr67@yahoo.com
Thanks,
Rich
Here are a few thoughts that might help some:
- Out of 2X4s I built two vertically adjustable stands and covered the tops of them with old carpet. I found that the right height for working on the outer hull was not the right height for putting in hours on the inner hull. A few turns on some thumb screws allowed me to save my back.
- Solo cups, sixteen ounce size, are great for mixing all of your epoxy. You can re-use each for a couple of quick batches, but then just throw them away and get another clean one when you're finished or when they get too sticky or messy.
- Tape your fillets then smooth with a wet (alcohol) finger two hours after they were put in.
- Sponge sanding blocks are worth their weight.
- I'm still using a 3/4" filleting tool (wooden) to stir all of my epoxy.
- The more evenly the epoxy goes on, the less sanding is required for a great finish.
- Silicon spatulas of all shapes, sizes, rounds and curves make remarkably good filleting tools. The silicon has a nice amount of flex in it and the epoxy won't adhere..
- Work carefully and slowly and enjoy what you're doing.
Here are a few thoughts that might help some:
- Out of 2X4s I built two vertically adjustable stands and covered the tops of them with old carpet. I found that the right height for working on the outer hull was not the right height for putting in hours on the inner hull. A few turns on some thumb screws allowed me to save my back.
- Solo cups, sixteen ounce size, are great for mixing all of your epoxy. You can re-use each for a couple of quick batches, but then just throw them away and get another clean one when you're finished or when they get too sticky or messy.
- Tape your fillets then smooth with a wet (alcohol) finger two hours after they were put in.
- Sponge sanding blocks are worth their weight.
- I'm still using a 3/4" filleting tool (wooden) to stir all of my epoxy.
- The more evenly the epoxy goes on, the less sanding is required for a great finish.
- Silicon spatulas of all shapes, sizes, rounds and curves make remarkably good filleting tools. The silicon has a nice amount of flex in it and the epoxy won't adhere..
- Work carefully and slowly and enjoy what you're doing.
This weekend I'll put together some pics and instructions for a bench , wall mounted cradles , and electric hoist system. I'll probably put it on clc's facebook page ,its easier for me to add pictures
I put up some pics on clc'sfacebook page of the bench along with a brief description. Let me know if your serious about the hoist I'll need to look up the specific parts I used basical I hung the track to a beam run accros the rafters using threaded rod
greg27,
I do not see the the photos on the clc facebook page.
I received my kit and will start later this week.
Thanks
Thanks Jameson.
I received my kit. I start gluing this weekend.
Thanks for all the tips.
Rich
It's been a while since I've been on the forum -- but here is a link to my dory build album. I was also a first time builder, and also installed inwales on my dory. Cheers,
Dave M.
https://goo.gl/photos/kvLCqExcr1UNvWMh9
Dave,
Thanks for the link. I hope my Dory is half a beautiful as yours.
Rich
No worries. Your dory is going to be terrific! Just read the manual a couple of times before starting, take things one step at a time, and remember that mistakes are inevitable and can always be corrected.
What Birch2 said. Have blast building the kit -- I sure did.
Dave M.
I have glued up the seat/boat supports. (They probably have an official name but I forget). I thought I did a good job getting all the epoxy drips but the epoxy can can drip and get places I did not fiind. I have quite a few on each one. The cabinet scraper is working very well with cleaning them up. A few more hours cleaning and sanding and I will be able to glue the bottom and side boards together.
Thanks for all the tips. I will post pictures later from home.
Rich
I have made some progress. I am at the fiberglassing the inside stage after the first flip. Ii has been going well so far. The skeg has a very slight bend at the front end. I do not think it will be a problem straightening it out when installing it with the screws. The transom was a pain to get lined up correctly. I had to add a couple of additional wires to bring it into compliance.
Posting pictures here is a bit of a challange so I have some pictures on google photos. Click the link to see them.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/cVTzMbKjm5GuJ5uj2
Thanks,
Rich
Trying to get the link to be clickable.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/cVTzMbKjm5GuJ5uj2
I think it should work now.
Rich
I'm not seeing any mistakes. You must not be following any of my advice. ;-)
I have been going slow and trying to keep things from going sideways. I have gone over the next step many time looking for ways it could go wrong. I only had a little time to work on it this weekend. I got the masking done on the 2nd board and dryfit the breast hook. I just clamped it on to see how it fit.
I did not like the fit. I added a couple of screws along with the clamps and it fits well now. Before adding screws there was about a 1/16 inch gap along the edge with the top board. The underside is touching but not the top edge. I will add pictures after I remember to take them. I keep forgetting to take pictures of things. I will not be epoxing it in until it is the correct time to do so per the instructions.
I am thinking of masking when I epoxy the bulkheads. Has anyone done this? it seems it would make clean up easier.
Thanks,
Rich
Just trying to link direct to photo.

Rich