Hello,
I have just ordered a Northeaster Dory kit with spacered inwale option. I will be using it for exercise, fishing and exploring local waterways.
I have been reading many threads on modifications and tips on building.
I would appriciate any tips for a first time boat builder that are Dory specific. I will keep searching and reading as well.
I was thinking of rounding over rail edges and seat edges to make the corners along the edge more pleasing to handle.
I plan on using my router table to do the rounding before assemble whenever possible. When not possible I will round by hand.
Thanks for the knowledge that is shared on the forum.
Rich
1: Use a little extra care fitting the puzzle joints together it might take a little sanding so they fit easily and the seams are flush.2: hand sanding works suprisingly well apply some spray adhesive to the Back of a sheet fold in half and cut to size 3:l like to tape off the fillets 4:keep a gallon of cheap vinegar around, its the only thing that washes the epoxy off your skin 5: count out loud when using epoxy pumps and swipe stirrers from coffee shops to mix.6: there's allways room for one more boat .I'm about 2/3 of the way through a ne dory but its my 5th clc boat
I agree with everything Greg just said. Especially the comment on hand sanding. I used a power sander for about 1/2 of my build, then discovered that a cheap sanding block worked better and was far less noisy! Don’t forget to wear a GOOD dust mask. I was working away one day and realized I had forgot to put it on. I felt like a had a nasty cold for several days after. As for Dory specific issues. one upgrade I found really helpful is to add rope along the leading edge of the bow as well as along the skeg. There are several threads on this site about it, I am at work and can’t take the time to search right now. This makes a very durable wear surface for points that tend to hit the ground when beaching. The Dory is the only boat I have had the joy of building, so far. And it truly was a joy, so best advice I can give? Don’t rush, don’t stress, use as many hand tools as you can.
Thank you, Mikeflys and Greg27 for your advise. I like the tape the fillets idea to reduce sanding and creating a nice even fillet. All the advise will come in to play once I can get started. Kit should ship out next week.
I have seen some boats locally that have put stainless steel guards on the bow and skeg. I read one thread on here that added the Dynel fabric bedded in graphite-filled epoxy. Is one method easier, better, harder?
Thanks,
Rich
I was having a lot of trouble with damage to the bow and the skeg at first. I had tried a product call Keeleasy that advertised to help. 1 landing on a cement boat launch tore right through it. I was about to try stainless when I remembered reading a thread on using rope. I gave that a try and have been very pleased with the results. Basically, you soak whatever rope you wish to use in un-thickened epoxy and apply it to the boat. It is tough as nails and looks …right, nautical you might say.
Any particular type of rope.
i..w I got some extra braided 3/8 line.
I am tring to get into Boston harbour this year before it freezes over.
The lake I live on is all limestone and dolostone, but the hull of my dory never touches these sharp rocks. All you need is a single beach roller made of 4" black currugated pipe -- cut to friction-fit between the thwarts.
To bring the boat ashore, I spin the dory around and come in stern first. (Easy to do because it is essentially double-ended.) I hop out in shallow water before the hull touches, grab my beach roller, throw it down at water's edge, spin the boat, gently lift the bow onto the roller, and pull it up until the bow is weighted. I toss a cushion or PFD under the bow so that it never touches rock.
As to finishing the boat, I like a bright finish but I don't like sanding more than necessary. I'm a big believer that both MAS epoxy and Interlux Spar Varnish are best applied "hot." That is, a second coat can go on as soon as the first coat is dry to the touch but before it has fully hardened. What you want is a chemical bond between coats that have not fully cured. With epoxy you can probably put on a second coat in as little as four hours and certainly within 24 hours. With varnish I'd be comfortable putting on as many as three coats in a single day. Of course, you should let both epoxy and varnish dry for several days before sanding for a finish coat.
Especially in varnishing, the idea is to build up several very thin coats and only then sand out whatever drips you may have. If the coats are thin enough, you won't have any drips at all -- but I've never managed that! Your final coat is the one that counts. It needs to be drip-free and also free of holidays. Good luck with that!
I'll add that I varnished my dory nearly two years ago and the finish has held up so well that I don't plan to refinish it this winter either.
The best trick I know about fillets is to let the epoxy get tacky and then dip a gloved hand into denatured alcohol and rub the fillet until it is smooth. It works wonders.
Think about striking a line straight down the center of the bottom panel, inside and out, before you stitch anything together. It will make aligning mast step, daggerboard trunk, skeg and rudder Much easier. The outside line will never be seen, inside will be hidden by all kinds of stuff while underway. Wish I'd done it on my dory build. Also think about marking center line on the transom before installation also. That will make getting the rudder attached in the right place easier. Go easy on this line though, it will be visable.
Good luck,
e
Trace the outside of the bulkhead panels with a sharpie onto your work bench,you'll have a guide to cut your floatation or anything else you want to fit the inside of the hull (I was considering building a wanningan)
A lot of good input. Thanks to all.
I like the rope idea and marking a centerline on the bottom.
I am getting the garage ready now in preparation for delivery. I am contemplating building a rolling table to build on. The videos if the Dory builds show 2 saw horses.
Any thoughts on a rolling table? Not needed just extra work and the 2 saw horses work great.
Thanks
Rich
I'm not sure what you have in mind for a rolling table. I built mine with 2 saw horses. In fact, I used the design that CLC has on its site. Are you going to have help? I did all the construction myself,but I did get help from family when I needed to turn it over. It's just a bit bulky for one person to do easly.
I already have saw horses. I have help available if needed.
I was thinking a table to move it arround as my garage is not very big and I will be corner to corner with the dory as I am building. I will probably have to move it forward and back to work around the ends.
I will try the saw horses and see how if goes. I can always make a rolling table later if needed.
Thanks,
Rich
Ah now I understand. As long as you can lock the wheels when you are working. That's a great idea!
I just ordered a dory kit too. It should be delivered in a few weeks. This thread is super helpful. Keep 'em coming!
When you start applying epoxy and/or fillets, you'll often need to move goop from one place to another. (You don't want it pooling up, dripping, or creating lumps that must be sanded later.) If you slice a plastic cup a few inches down from the top, you can scoop epoxy up with your plastic spreader and then use the slit in the cup to scrape it off the spreader and into the cup for later use.
Thanks to all for your tips and suggestions.
I am sure I will be asking plenty of question after my kit arrive in a couple of weeks.
Rich
Started gluing Memorial Day, worked most every weekend sanding, gluing, sanding, epoxying, sanding, It's 95% assembled, working on 3d coat of paint on outside and epoxy/varnish on inside and spars, seats, rudder, centerboard, etc. Random build thoughts:
Tools - shinto rasp (great for taking off wood but be careful); cabinet scraper (great for removing epoxy and smoothing wood); random orbital sander hooked to shopvac and using smart power strip to turn on vac when sander is turned on; $1 spring clamps and $10 for pvc pipe cut for clamps
Assembly - ensure puzzle joints are flat, clamps are probably better than weights, use spacer blocks length of boards while gluing so there are no bends; be very careful sanding wood that will be finished bright - plywood layers are thin. Start with cabinet scraper and work up using fine sand paper; cellofil makes white blobs, wood filled epoxy makes brown - think about what will show and how much cleanup there will be and decide which to use for gluing. Adjust amount of cellofil/wood filler to adjust color; Don't smear squeeze out, use scraper/clean it up or let it cure (easier to remove), smearing makes a bigger mess across more area; rout outer edges of inwales and gunwales before assembly; rout inner, front edges of centerboard and skeg before assembly (makes a groove when assembled) so you can fill with epoxy fillet on front edges (vs epoxy rope);
Tips - read the CLC assembly manual a couple times; look at build pictures (Moonchaser, smittypaddler, bshillam and others - all very helpful - thanks to them for posting); search/read the CLC forum prior to each big step; before cutting, gluing or major shaping (shinto, belt sander, etc) lay out bits and practice/walk through actions - measure 2-3 times, cut once
Most errors are recoverable/fixable/hideable. Remember it's a boat, not furniture - what you see at 1-2 ft won't be noticed at 10 ft. You can spend a lot of time for very little gain (or have a big mess up - too much sanding or "improving"). Enjoy the build.
Hi Rich,
Not sure whether that would help you, but when I was building my Chester Yawl (in progress) in the linked picture, I used some 2X4 I had laying around and quickly assembled this cradle: I used the horizontal 2X4’s to put the hull together, until the strakes were glued. Then, I added the two straps (heavy fabric my wife had laying around) between the vertical posts. Once I put the boat in that sling (by myself), I could easily flip the hull over at will, singlehandedly. For ease, I added small casters under the cradle so that I could move the boat between the garage and outside for such things as epoxy, sanding, etc.
It was something I did quickly and without much thought, but that ended up being extremely helpful. So much so, that I kept the cradle in my basement ... just in case another boat wants to be built ;-)
https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B81mbFEcmsHoM2VKV3Vaam1LWUE
Eric,
Thanks for the picture. Your boat looks great. I like the cradle.
Thanks,
Rich