I’m beveling the shear strips for a Petrel Play, cove & bead. While it looks like I’ve got a decent rolling bevel, the proof will be some time from now when I start the deck. I’m concerned about removing too much from the shear. I don’t want to rely on Doctor Fill.
Is it reasonable to err on the side of leaving material on the shear now, and address it later when starting the deck? I expect it will be a bit of fiddly detail work (small rabbet plane, sharp chisels).
Given that the goal is to mate the shear and the deck, it seems that I get somewhat close now and fine tune when both sides are in play.
i have built the petrel play and petrel and some other similar builds. the most important element of this beveling of the shear strips is that the outermost edge of the shear is fare (has a nice smooth curve along the shear) and that in cutting your bevel, that you don’t cut into that outermost edge of the shear strips.
on the first point, if you look at this picture when i was building my petrel play, you can see the blue tape line is protecting the hull side of the top of the shear line strip from the deck (so i don’t accidentally glue them together before they are supposed to). the line is smooth and from the outside, represents where i want it to be. the same is true for the shear strip of the deck…its fare and where it is supposed to be.
in answer to your question, not totally getting the bevel perfect right now is ok as long as the outside face of the shear strips are fare and that you don’t cut into them.
when you do get around to your final beveling, you will only be removing material from the inside mating edges. if you happen to take a little extra off on the inside, nobody will see it. as long as the outside is smooth, you will be fine.
in my builds i inevitably take off a little extra material on the inside of the bevel (typically 1 milimeter ‘over bevel’ ) so when i pull it tight, the outside edges marry with no discernable gap.
I was careful to stay clear of the outside edge, so it should be good. I also had very good results with a heat gun to compound curve the ends of the shear strip so that it hits all the form marks without additional bending. That also means some tight bends built-in, making a plane near-useless.
You’ve got a color scheme similar to my plan. The kit appears to be 50% white cedar and 50% red. I figured I’d do the hull red cedar from the shear strip down, with a small white cedar football on the bottom (when I had used most of the red strips). The deck will be all white cedar except for a red stripe forestem to stern. That way, I don’t need to worry about having enough of a color.
