I prefer to build without staples. I understand they allow one to progress faster since each strip can be solidly held in place while the glue dries. I mostly use tape (3M rough surface) to pull the new strip down tight against the last one. The general technique is to let the glue set up, then remove the tape before adding the next row, which limits the number of steps one can do in a day. Now, I’m not in a hurry, so that’s not a deal breaker, but sometimes I would like to make faster progress. So I’m wondering if anyone has just left the tape in place from the previous strip and then glue and tape the next one in? Once the glue sets then the tape can be cut off flush to the strip so there just remains the small piece between the strips. Obviously this will leave short areas without a good glue joint. I wonder mostly though if that small bit would be visible, or gum up sanding, or some other ill effect. Or perhaps the tape can be pulled out of the joint.
Hi Steve,
i would not leave tape between strips. you will end up seeing it. you can also move fast with tape and no staples. i have done it.
when i am working with tape and i need to put another strip on top of a taped strip, i cut the part of the tape over the edge but leave the tape on the face of the wood. usually between the time i would be doing this, the wood glue has already dried enough that, between the glue and the tape that is remaining, it all holds.
when i am working fast, i am still going to be alternating sides, and there is often some fitting or othe cutting work to be done before you are ready to glue such that by the time you are ready to cut the part of the tape that overlaps, it is easily 30 minutes or more. for thinly applied wood glue, that is pretty good.
obviously if there is something under a lot of tension, you may have to wait a bit longer…but that is not so often.
you can also experiment with different tape types and it also depends if you are working with cove and bead or beveled edges. for beveled edges, you can leave tape and remove it if it is a strong strapping tape. this tape will pull out of the space and is strong enough not to break when you pull it out. and the little gap of non-glue would not impact anything. but that process won’t work with blue tape…which, for me, is the default tape i use except for where i need a lot of tension. it also wont work with cove and bead becase the tape would not pull out of a bent hole that is created in this type of joinery.
anyway, my experience tells me that staples is not faster. but with tape, you will need to experiment a bit to find the balance of the the type of tape, your taping technique, and your glue and speed (and how much it allows the glue to set) to get the right combination.
Thanks Howard, that makes sense. I started to play around with it and also realized leaving the tape over the edge will interfere with beveling the edge to fit the next strip. I do like the idea of cutting the part that goes over the edge and leaving the sides.
I also go side to side and between that and leaving things sit for an hour or so seems to allows things to set up enough to just remove the tape. I just need to slow down a bit and enjoy the journey!
I use the green Scotch Rough Surface (2060) tape and it works well. It has a very small bit of stretch and sticks well without leaving residue.
hi steve,
i looked up your tape and seems similar to the blue tape i use - basically a paper tape and will rip relatively easy if you pull too tight. and so you are probably using it in low tension situations and if doing tight work with little in the way of gaps, your glue should set relatively well.
since you confirmed you are doing a beveling edge, your beveling plane will easily cut this if it is sharp so you can use that to cut off the tape that would be ‘between’ the strips. tape can gumm up a blade a bit, just remember to clear it out…or precut.
my sense is, generally, the faster you can move, the less tension/twist that is involved…and the temp tape, even if cut down to not go over the edge, will hold. the pieces with a lot of twist or tension typically need the most complex beveling which takes time.
also, fwiw, since i bevel cut my strip builds, i generally am bisecting the bevel. so for the strip gettting placed, its ‘mating’ edge is going to get half the bevel allocated to it…or basically, its going to get worked prior to it being glued, which may be why i have a bit more time between strips.
fwiw, i do use the nick schade robo plane on the edge if possible, but i still often end up doign a small angle on the strip i am appling.
h
Yes it’s very similar to the blue tape, though I can get pretty good tension on it without it breaking. It’s hard to find in the narrow (~1”) width. The only local place with that was Michael’s. Lowe’s, Walmart, etc have the wider (~2”).
I also use the robo plane and it seems to work well. My only real complaint is it fills up with shavings quickly, though it’s easy to clean out. I just have to keep an eye on it. The blade tensioner screw also likes to back itself off periodically. When it stops cutting it’s one of those two. I supplement that with a Stanley 79 rabbeting plane which I really like. I’ll have to see if they cut through the tape without gumming up. That’s would be a good solution.
So far I’m a big fan of square edge strips. The cove strips are fragile and it’s easy to break off an edge. It’s also easier to bring more pressure to pull strips together. I guess I need to see how it sands out to see if it truly works better for me.